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Breezy Does It
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Warrior Wall & Last Chance Wall
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Armchair Warrior T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Breezy Does It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dike Brigade S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dog Day Afternoon T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hakuna Matata T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Last Chance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Savor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Secret Weapon T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Skid lid T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Slide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Slim Twist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Top Sider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Water into Wine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Collins, 05 |
| Page Views: | 664 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Collins on Apr 22, 2008 |
| Admins: | Tyler KC, JD Borgeson |
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Description
This route has more history than Cher and Meatloaf!
No, not really; but it sure has given me a couple stories to tell.
Here's one:
The first day I went to do this it was an early morning and I was alone. I started from the ground, rope soloing. The wind was HOWLING. I am not good on measuring wind speed, but surely it was over 300 miles an hour. Maybe more.
Up through the 5.8 section of good handcrack and jugs to the obvious break, and the blank headwall. I placed a bolt, and lightened the load. I tried to free to the next break and took a number of wingers. Finally, I figured out the sequence, using a key crimp and nailed the crux. I climbed above it a little bit and placed a hook, then pulled up my drill. After another bolt, I pulled up rope to clip in. And then...
POP GOES THE WEASEL! with all my slack out to clip and my drill over my shoulder I took the big ride.
I screamed like a little girl.
No, literally, it was full falsetto, and a little nasaly.
The key crimp?
Gone.
Good luck.
No, not really; but it sure has given me a couple stories to tell.
Here's one:
The first day I went to do this it was an early morning and I was alone. I started from the ground, rope soloing. The wind was HOWLING. I am not good on measuring wind speed, but surely it was over 300 miles an hour. Maybe more.
Up through the 5.8 section of good handcrack and jugs to the obvious break, and the blank headwall. I placed a bolt, and lightened the load. I tried to free to the next break and took a number of wingers. Finally, I figured out the sequence, using a key crimp and nailed the crux. I climbed above it a little bit and placed a hook, then pulled up my drill. After another bolt, I pulled up rope to clip in. And then...
POP GOES THE WEASEL! with all my slack out to clip and my drill over my shoulder I took the big ride.
I screamed like a little girl.
No, literally, it was full falsetto, and a little nasaly.
The key crimp?
Gone.
Good luck.
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