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Convenience Cliff
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Breaking the Mold S 
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Breaking the Mold 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bolted By John Garlough, Kevin Capps and Jay Samuelson. FA Kevin Capps
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,139
Submitted By: Jay Samuelson on Dec 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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I went up to Convenience Cliff after seeing it fro...

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

The route: 

This is an beautiful face climb that will test your core, creativity, and crimp strength. Start out by gaining a slopey ledge, and begin the interesting and increasingly difficult movement up wavy black and orange rock. A few moves trending right up a seam will lead you to a decent stance and a chance to size up the crux. Fire through the face on small crimps to get a somewhat decent ledge where you can make the final clip, and get ready for the big toss. Catch a decent hold that is just waiting to tear your fingers up if you hit it wrong, get the feet up, and grab the finishing jug, which is also the top of the cliff. Clip the anchors or top this thing out like they did in the day's of yore, and you have just Broken the Mold, my friend.

Location: 

Breaking the Mold climbs up the sweeping face on the left side of Convenience Cliff - currently the farthest left bolted route on the cliff.

Protection: 

6 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.

  • **There are still some loose flakes and chips on this route, mostly lower down and aren't any holds you need or use. Not a whole lot, but be cautious of the flake peeling potential and you'll be fine.


Photos of Breaking the Mold Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin mid-crux on the FA of Breaking the Mold.
Kevin mid-crux on the FA of Breaking the Mold.
Entering the crux.
Entering the crux.
John finishing off the bolting job on Breaking the Mold in the snow. Nice.
John finishing off the bolting job on Breaking the...

Comments on Breaking the Mold Add Comment
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By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Dec 16, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This route has quality rock on the top portion for a climb that deserves it! Thanks, Jay!
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Dec 16, 2010

Way to crush this thing on the FA, Kevin! It was really impressive to see you fire this thing first go, while it was snowing! And when you hadn't even pulled all the moves on toprope! So psyched this thing went down like that, it really couldn't have gone any better! Congrats, man, can't wait to get back out there and climb this one!
By Luke Childers
Dec 16, 2010

Nice work, guys!!! Looks like a great route! And sending in the snow.... I love the style!! Good start to the winter bolt and send season!! Kevin...need I say more!! You're a beast that likes to run with the freaks!!!! Can't wait to get back out soon!!
By Luke Childers
Dec 22, 2010

Got a chance to TR on this rig today!!! Sounds crazy, but it was even better that it looks because it's a beautiful line!!! Can believe this section was wall hasn't seen any action until now!!! It's the line that define's this wall. Yes.. it's classic. Can't wait to have the power to lead this hog!!
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Dec 23, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Awesome, Luke! I'm glad you got to get on it, and I agree that it is a very defining line and also very fun. Great also for cold days because it faces the sun and is very high in the canyon. You will lead it very soon, breaking your back and leg sometimes takes a couple months to recover from...you're an animal.
By chinos
Jan 9, 2011

It was a pleasure to belay Kevin on the FA. He cranked this thing in fine style. Hope to be back in the canyon and putting in more quality lines with you guys soon. Cheers.