Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Rich Gottlieb, Jack Carter - 1978 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Sep 4, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Breaking Rocks... after the initial burliness. A f...
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Description If the steep approach hike from the parking lot didn't leave you panting, Breaking Rocks will. The opening moves are strenuous but well-protected.
Starting in an alcove left of an arete, thrash through the tough off-width to gain the crack that the off-width narrows into. Follow this steep crack to its end, then move right and up through another crack to end at a spacious ledge.
Location Located in the Amphitheatre section; starts about 40' right of Almost Seven in a small alcove. Rap from fixed gear rap station shared with Stab in the Dark.
Protection Mostly small to medium pro, but bring some big gear (e.g., #5 Camalot) for the off-width.
Keith moving out right on Breaking Rocks. The Brea...
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| Comments on Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do |
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 4, 2007
| This is a real workout, but a lot of fun. Tape gloves or hand jammies are a good idea. Hats off to Michael K. for a burly lead. |
By Tim Fisher
Jun 4, 2009
rating: 5.9-
| This is an under appreciated climb. Kinda like granite at the start. A big chock stone pulled off the start of this in the 80s. |
By Matt Westlake
Jul 4, 2010
rating: 5.9+
| Figured out today that it's possible to traverse in from the left about 20 feet up and dodge the crux at the bottom. This travels up the easy breakdown+large crack to the left and steps across the gap to where the little bit of greenery is. Just enough gear to make it palatable. We used it set up a rope for 2nds who weren't up to the burl challenge and just wanted to TR an easier line. Be sure to take care with directionals if you do this though as a pendulum would be kind of nasty. Rest of the line probably goes at 5.8 this way, but the dodge is considerably easier. |
By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Oct 12, 2010
| Home of many a grunt-fest. Stemming scumming and the occasional jam will get you through the business. Very first move is probably harder for the shorter.
Start protects well with a big nut or two. |
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