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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walk in the Light T 
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 
Aloof Roof T 
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 
Command Performance T 
Do or Dive T 
Doan's Pills T 
Excellent Adventure T 
Finger Love T 
High Wire T 
Nuclear Crayon T 
Quaker State T 
Raise Hell T 
Shit Hook T 
Stab in the Dark T 
Step and Fetch T 
Wailing Wall T 
Zombie Woof T 

Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rich Gottlieb, Jack Carter - 1978
Page Views: 1,748
Submitted By: saxfiend on Sep 4, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Breaking Rocks... after the initial burliness. A f...

Description 

If the steep approach hike from the parking lot didn't leave you panting, Breaking Rocks will. The opening moves are strenuous but well-protected.

Starting in an alcove left of an arete, thrash through the tough off-width to gain the crack that the off-width narrows into. Follow this steep crack to its end, then move right and up through another crack to end at a spacious ledge.


Location 

Located in the Amphitheatre section; starts about 40' right of Almost Seven in a small alcove. Rap from fixed gear rap station shared with Stab in the Dark.


Protection 

Mostly small to medium pro, but bring some big gear (e.g., #5 Camalot) for the off-width.



Photos of Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do Slideshow Add Photo
Keith moving out right on Breaking Rocks. The Breaking Rocks ledge and Finger love are also shown in the picture.
Keith moving out right on Breaking Rocks. The Brea...
Comments on Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do Add Comment
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 4, 2007

This is a real workout, but a lot of fun. Tape gloves or hand jammies are a good idea. Hats off to Michael K. for a burly lead.

By Tim Fisher
Jun 4, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

This is an under appreciated climb. Kinda like granite at the start. A big chock stone pulled off the start of this in the 80s.

By Matt Westlake
Jul 4, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Figured out today that it's possible to traverse in from the left about 20 feet up and dodge the crux at the bottom. This travels up the easy breakdown+large crack to the left and steps across the gap to where the little bit of greenery is. Just enough gear to make it palatable. We used it set up a rope for 2nds who weren't up to the burl challenge and just wanted to TR an easier line. Be sure to take care with directionals if you do this though as a pendulum would be kind of nasty. Rest of the line probably goes at 5.8 this way, but the dodge is considerably easier.

By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Oct 12, 2010

Home of many a grunt-fest. Stemming scumming and the occasional jam will get you through the business. Very first move is probably harder for the shorter.

Start protects well with a big nut or two.