Crack route around corner to right of Cheetah route. Very nice pure crack route for bottom half. Top half climbs through sustained and steep wall/corner/roof. Crux through wide section and small overhang in middle section. One can side step the crux of the middle section to the left but the crux section should not be missed.
Left side of large dark corner chimney that makes up the right side of Bill's Buttress. Around the corner to the right of route "Cheetah".
Excellent all sizes and types of gear. Wider cam or hex to protect the brief wide crux section.
Yes Jay. I agree. Always have been thinking BOC is another one of those famously under rated routes at DL. And especially if folks stay on route through the wide section and roof it is a tough one for a 5.8. Harder then other 5.8's at the East Bluff?
I just found out from Rhoads that I did this wrong. I stepped out right after the crack and continued through "no gear" territory until I reached the top of the giant flake. Apparently you are actually supposed to step out left after the crack. That would be the reason for me giving it a 5.10a grade.
Breakfast of Champions Direct 5.10a - Step out right after the crack, surmount the overhang, continue on slopers and crimps to top of large flake. Finishes from here the same as original route.
If you lead it, watch out for the Ledge about 1/2 way up. Take some small gear with.
By Ryan Strong From: Golden, CO Jun 28, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Jun 28, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Yeah, literally it's hidden... but it's unfortunate this route doesn't see more action! It's very good and the wide section is pretty entertaining and the upper crux (two variations, one to the left and one to the right directly over the roof) is very exciting. The only fault of this route is the huge platform that breaks up the route and therefore lacks consistency.
When I led this, I went out right after the crack and was getting super pumped and run out. To me the giant flake ledge in the upper 3rd of the route was a life saver. I reached it and let out a loud "Thank God".