|Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
The climb is near the "Pick Pocket Wall," on Redgarden, just up and left of the more difficult Captain Crunch.
Go up the Redgarden trail as if approaching the normal classics by the Yellow Spur, but instead of walking quite so far, stop just as you turn the corner to head up the hill, and look at the wall to your right. This west facing wall has several short lines on it, only a few of which are any good.
Breakfast of Champions is one of those few good lines, and it is pretty easy for its given grade of 5.11a. I would have suggested 5.10c, but if you bobble with the gear, your nerves may add to the perceived difficulty.
Spot the line by the obvious chalked crack- move up and through some poor rock at the bottom to harder and more solid rock on pinches and clings above. After a few placements and a few long moves up the overhang, you will find yourself on a runout thin slab, with anchors just beyond reach. Make the commitment and get to the anchors.
This route can easily be toproped, but walking up to set the rope might then be the crux. A slippery, soft, hill-full of aggressive ants and shrubs is the back-side, so leading and following seems to be the nicer option to me.
The protection is a little bit dicey, but not all together horrible. A few cams and stoppers provide saftey, but might be pumpy to place unless you are used to overhangs.
|By Joseph P. Crotty|
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 8, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R
Onsight this feels like .11a R. Gear seemed marginal, but holds appear when needed. We used the two bolt chain anchor on top of Captain Crunch which is to the right of the finish.