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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension 
Arcane Saw 
Bitter Route, The 
Breakfast Of Champions 
Cabana Boy 
Candy-O 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana 
Captain Crunch 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy 
Day Dream 
Dispensary, The 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation 
Flakey Floont 
Flower Quarter 
Greaser, The 
Hasting's Cutoff 
Lemon Line 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly 
Loose Lucy 
Lucid Dream 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect 
Mr. Natural 
Over 'ed Power Line 
Phee-nix 
Pickpocket 
Quantum Mechanics 
Real Men Eat Eggs 
Remention 
Rough Roof 
Roving for Love 
Schizophrenia 
Senora (??) 
Senorita 
Shadow 
Slimy Spoon, The 
Strangle Hold 
Sub Slab 
Suparete 
Super Natural 
Super Slab Direct Start 
Tiny Line 
Toys for Tots 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The 
Velvet Hammer 
Vertical Smile 
Waking Sleep 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 
Zombies on the Lookout 

Breakfast Of Champions 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: [S Wunsch & J Erickson]
Page Views: 594
Submitted By: Tony B on May 1, 2001
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Bob Horan on Breakfast of Champions.
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  • Description 

    The climb is near the "Pick Pocket Wall," on Redgarden, just up and left of the more difficult Captain Crunch.

    Go up the Redgarden trail as if approaching the normal classics by the Yellow Spur, but instead of walking quite so far, stop just as you turn the corner to head up the hill, and look at the wall to your right. This west facing wall has several short lines on it, only a few of which are any good.

    Breakfast of Champions is one of those few good lines, and it is pretty easy for its given grade of 5.11a. I would have suggested 5.10c, but if you bobble with the gear, your nerves may add to the perceived difficulty.

    Spot the line by the obvious chalked crack- move up and through some poor rock at the bottom to harder and more solid rock on pinches and clings above. After a few placements and a few long moves up the overhang, you will find yourself on a runout thin slab, with anchors just beyond reach. Make the commitment and get to the anchors.

    This route can easily be toproped, but walking up to set the rope might then be the crux. A slippery, soft, hill-full of aggressive ants and shrubs is the back-side, so leading and following seems to be the nicer option to me.


    Protection 

    The protection is a little bit dicey, but not all together horrible. A few cams and stoppers provide saftey, but might be pumpy to place unless you are used to overhangs.



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    By Joseph P. Crotty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Jun 8, 2006
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R

    Onsight this feels like .11a R. Gear seemed marginal, but holds appear when needed. We used the two bolt chain anchor on top of Captain Crunch which is to the right of the finish.