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Breakfast in Bed
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 250
votes
Routes in The Bastille - W Face
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Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blind Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Breakfast in Bed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In Plain Sight T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Out to Lunge Variation T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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West Face Directissma T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Briggs & Candelaria, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 10,442 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Nov 3, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Interesting route on the west face of the Bastille. Starts out with some dicey moves on loose rock and then immediately shoots up an exposed arete on positive huecos.
I found that Rossiter's topo made finding this climb, based on features, rather difficult. However, it is easy to find - it is the first obvious line to the right of Blind Faith. When facing the obvious Blind Faith crack, look about 50 feet uphill. This climb is immediately to the right of the broken, rotten strip of rock, and it starts next to a huge Christmas tree up on a ledge. Scramble up to this ledge (Rossiter indicates that you should climb uphill and then cut across on the ledge, but it's just as easy to go straight up it to the tree). Begin the climb here - look for a piton and a fixed stopper up on the broken rock in front of you (per Carl Sampurna: above and slightly left, but don't feel compelled to head for it, there are several possible paths through the bottom section).
The climb initially traverses right on scary rock (requiring balancy moves), and then shoots straight up a chimney right next to the arete, eventually moving out onto the arete. The climb tops out on easy ground (5.4) and belay's at a tree. Walk off the top.
I found the climb to be well-protected but probably requires some looking around for good placements. However, once you move out onto the arete the jugs are so huge and positive that it's easier to just run it out. The climb's hardest moves are in the beginning and it progressively gets easier the higher you go.
I found that Rossiter's topo made finding this climb, based on features, rather difficult. However, it is easy to find - it is the first obvious line to the right of Blind Faith. When facing the obvious Blind Faith crack, look about 50 feet uphill. This climb is immediately to the right of the broken, rotten strip of rock, and it starts next to a huge Christmas tree up on a ledge. Scramble up to this ledge (Rossiter indicates that you should climb uphill and then cut across on the ledge, but it's just as easy to go straight up it to the tree). Begin the climb here - look for a piton and a fixed stopper up on the broken rock in front of you (per Carl Sampurna: above and slightly left, but don't feel compelled to head for it, there are several possible paths through the bottom section).
The climb initially traverses right on scary rock (requiring balancy moves), and then shoots straight up a chimney right next to the arete, eventually moving out onto the arete. The climb tops out on easy ground (5.4) and belay's at a tree. Walk off the top.
I found the climb to be well-protected but probably requires some looking around for good placements. However, once you move out onto the arete the jugs are so huge and positive that it's easier to just run it out. The climb's hardest moves are in the beginning and it progressively gets easier the higher you go.
Photos
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