This is an excellent and challenging finger crack. Climb the initial overlaps to reach the base of the finger crack. Rest and plan ahead for the upcoming difficulties. It is very strenuous and hard to place gear when you are pumped. Go for broke and you will be rewarded with a nice jug at the finish. There are two bolts for anchors at the top of the crack.
Find the obvious y-shaped finger crack that splits the middle of Cove Rock.
TCUs, set of stoppers, and a couple hand size pieces for the bottom of the climb.
|Comments on Breakfast in America
|By Chris Mack|
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
This route is incredibly hard. I think it is a ridiculous sandbag unless you are a 5.13 climber or your digits fit the crack perfectly. I am being conservative when I say it is 11+. The start isn't too bad, but it is committing and if you do it wrong it is going to suck the life out of you. The crux is desperate. BAG-O-SAND. :)
The bolted anchor is in good condition, but it is set back a bit, so if you plan to rig a toprope, make sure you have some double length slings to extend the anchor.
|By Nick Barczak|
Jul 9, 2013
Feels harder than both Jaws (5.11a, Mt. Woodson) and Espresso Crack (5.11, Little Egypt).