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By Nate Ball
From: Taipei, TW
Aug 8, 2014
Four great climbs in this little self-contained venue. Unfortunately only one of them has any top anchor, making accessibility an issue.
Blackberry Jam can be lead and then belayed from the top, either on the precarious top-out ledge, or at a fir tree 30 feet back.
Espresso can be rapped and top-roped from the chain around the tree. The tree doesn't look great, and the chain setup isn't exactly UIAA standard, but it's all you have in this area.
White Rabbit tops out in a section without any trees or cracks nearby. No idea how you would belay up a second climber.
Bird of Paradise ditto above.
I scouted this area pretty thoroughly. There are plenty of bolt threads, but the hangers have been removed. No trees safely accessible for rappelling. If you don't want to climb out, you can go down to the perimeter trail below and take the scenic route out.
By another Chad
Aug 9, 2014
Here's the set up for top-roping several of the Breakfast Cracks classics.
With a 50 foot (give or take) static rope, tie an end around the large fir tree that's 40 feet back from the top of the climb. Pull the rope to the edge of the climb. During this process you'll be attached to the rope with a Grigri. Tie a loop in the end of the rope and attach a locking carabiner to it. Put the center of your climbing rope through the locking carabiner and toss it over the cliff. Back-up is either a hex or a hand sized cam. You might need to adjust the length on either the hex or the static line to get them equal. Ideally, you'll want most of the climber's weight to be on the hex/cam.
With a 100 foot (give or take) static rope, tie the center of the rope around the reasonably large fir tree that's 30 feet back from the top of the climb. The fir tree is back in the woods a bit. Pull the two tails of the static line to the edge of the cliff. During this process you'll be attached to one of the tails with a Grigri. Tie a loop into each of the tails and attach a locking carabiner to each loop. Put the center of your climbing rope through the carabiners and toss it over the cliff. Set the static rope over the smooth, rounded edge at the top of White Rabbit. You'll want your carabiners to be just below the lip.
Birds of Paradise
2 or 3 foot sling on the old Metolius Rap hanger at the top. Back-up with a bomber nut roughly 5 feet behind the hanger. Another backup option is further back in the alcove, roughly a #2 C3. Either use a short length of rope or some super long slings to connect it all. Birds of Paradise is a common and easy way to rappel into Breakfast Cracks.
It's a bit daunting figuring all this out for the first time. With practice it takes less than 25 minutes to set up all of the TR's on Blackberry Jam, Espresso, White Rabbit and Birds of Paradise. Great for after work sessions.
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