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Breakfast Club 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson / Kurt Smith 1990
Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001

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  • Description 

    Breakfast Club is an interesting route with some varied moves. Climb an initial crack with insecure moves to a sloping ledge. Follow the bolts up the overhung arete until joining the final moves of the 11c route to the right. The last moves are done in the crack at the top of the arete. Staying out the the crack makes this route significantly more difficult. The moves on the arete are powerful, but quite enjoyable.


    Protection 

    5 bolts / two bolt/chains anchor.



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    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 19, 2003

    I think this route best by staying out of the corner altogether with your hands. You do stem across the right foot to clip the anchors. From the left hand crimp high and the righthand undercling/arete pinch/pistol grip thingy hike the feet and go with the right hand to the arete crimp by the last bolt. Then massage the right hand to the good right hand arete jug just a little higher. Finally stem right towards the 11c and cross the left hand high along the arete just below the roof to a gaston.From this position one can clip or reach a crimp jug high to the right. No jams needed and a nicer flow than the grovel up the shared corner.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 29, 2004

    Anyone have beta for this route? Above the sloping ledge, I was doing a mini-iron cross between two crimps... is this ridiculous? The reach up to the next left hand crimp feels 12+ easily... then the arete is all right.... Am I doing this all wrong?

    By Derek Lawrence
    From: Bailey
    Aug 5, 2009

    To get off the sloping ledge, I used left hand on the small sidepull crimp, reached right out to the arete and bearhugged to get the feet up on small edges. Left hand up to the good sidepull, then right higher up the arete. Fun burly sequence!

    By Luke Childers
    Aug 21, 2009
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    Ok line. The upper section is less than desirable and a fall while trying to clip to last bolt before the anchors could result in a bone crushing ledge fall....

    By chipacles
    Jun 28, 2011
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    I have to agree with Luke Childers: This route has a scary last clip...bolt should be down at least a foot...you could clip from the same hold, but just not have to pull as much slack. Even the second bolt offers a potential groundfall if missed. Beware if you get on it.

    That said, I think the upper section has nice movement and a little bit of beta to make you earn the 12.