Breakdown in Paradise 5.10b
| 520 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | David Tvedt on May 3, 2006 |
| |
Kate and Dave starting Breakdown
Add Photo  Printer View
Description An unusual route that starts with easier moves on an aesthetic, highly pocketed wall before hitting a crux sequence about 3/4s up on edges. The crux feels a bit contrived because the bolting tries to force you into harder terrain when an easier sequence is a bit off to the side but has a pendulum fall risk as a deterrent.
Location Just right of the start of Moscow.
Protection Bolts. Rap Anchors.
| Comments on Breakdown in Paradise |
|
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Jul 26, 2010
| New guide book says this routinely spits off people expecting a cruise. I went slightly right of the bolt line following some chalked crimps and polished tiny feet. Felt full-on 5.11. |
By DWech
From: Fort Collins
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.10c
| Agree with Ybarra, and I'm probably one of those 'routinely spit off' (hey, I made the new guidebook!). The rating on this route changes quite a bit depending on how you attack it, but journeying back to the bolts keeps it mid-10. |
By Toby B
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| From what I've gathered, the bolt that forces you into the harder terrain is a recent addition of the past few years. The 10b grade is for climbing to the left of the bolt line up high, despite the pendulum risk. Definitely considerably harder (5.11 most likely) if you go straight up.
What a crappy route. |
|
RSS Feed
1 more...
