Once you've done this route you can see it while keeping the cooler company back at the Ice Box Canyon Parking Area. A very distinctive black streak comprises the crux second pitch. A lot of hiking for this one route, but a great way to round out the day if you're already in the canyon.
Scramble out of the wash to a prominent blonde pedestal of soft rock piled against the Refrigerator Wall. You'll see the bolts of Kisses Don't Lie around to the left of Breakaway while hiking in the wash.
The first pitch leaves the top of the pedestal past four bolts on some brown varnish. Every hard (5.8) move has a bolt where you need it. Near the top of the first pitch it slabs out. Set up a gear belay (#1, 1.25, and 3 friend) in some cracks near the top of the slab. You'll belay off some footholds, but still on the slab.
From the first belay, move up and left toward the first bolt and the beggining of the black streak. A blue alien and #2 wallnut protect some 10a moves up to the first bolt. Charge through the first two bolts on steep rock (crux, 10c). The wall above looks to be about 11d. You'll be thinking about those RP's you left at the base, but not to worry. The holds next to the thin seam are always good, the bolts (a total of eleven on this pitch) are close enough, and the position is fantastic. After the last bolt, there is a bit of a run-out on easier climbing, I plugged in a #2 friend before clipping the anchors.
You'll need two ropes for the rappels.
A very light rack; med. stoppers, #1, 1.25, and 3 friend for belay. 2nd P; Blue Alien, #2 wallnut to 1st bolt, #2 friend after last bolt.
|By Todd Ritter|
Sep 7, 2004
In the above photo of Icebox Canyon, Breakaway climbs the black streak rising between the "S" and the "u" of Sunnyside.
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 27, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Some scary climbing to the first bolt on the second pitch. Don't do like me and climb in from the left side. The rock is shit and there is no pro. This climb is a classic and you'll be amazed that every hold doesn't pop off in your hands. A cool head is necessary for this one. Sweet and steep climbing on this fine line.
|By Xavier Wasiak|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 9, 2006
Just climbed this fun and exciting route. It felt harder than 10c. Most of the route is pretty well protected, but the last 30 feet or so is run-out. Like Karsten said, a cool head is helpful. Most of the route stayed to the left of the black streak and the mostly edges (not flakes),that I pulled on, seemed pretty solid. Having said that, some holds did give me reason to pause and consider the options. I thought the second bolt of the second pitch seemed a bit awkward to clip.
May 20, 2007
Instead of climbing the first pitch up and right following the bolts climb up and left after clipping the third bolt. Run it out (easy climbing) to a large pedestal just left of second pitch. You can set up a nice comfortable belay here with camalots (2 #2's and a #3) This makes for easier and safer access to second pitch.
Apr 29, 2010
Great route! We belayed at the base of a chimney at a bolted anchor. This added a dozen feet or so to the traverse to the top of the pedestal out left, then up to the bolts, but it wasnt bad. The holds to get to the first bolt (from the left side, looking at the wall) seemed good to me and were nicely chalked up. Clip the first bolt, breath a sigh of relief, then fire up the sustained goodness!
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 1, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
The second pitch looks improbably steep and intimidating for 5.10+ but the holds are positive. Dubious but positive. The position and sustained climbing on P2 is fantastic. If the rock quality was better this would easily be four stars. As it is, definitely pull down, not out, on the holds and go easy on the pulls.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 29, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
An absolutely stunning line reminicent of the hard pitch on Levitation or Dogma - just easier. Away from the crowds,in the shade, pulling perfect crimpers on a steep wall with the need for a little gear near the top. One of my favorite plated face pitches in the park. Pitch 1 will keep down the crowds due to a 50 foot 5.5 runout. Belay on top of the pillar just left of the line - sit down belay with great gear in the crack (any cam from 1 inch to 4 inches). You can then rap down to the top of La Cierta Edad belay to rap off.
|By Rob Fielding|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 28, 2012
1st pitch: A little runout, but on very easy terrain. Bring some extra gear for the anchor: 1-4"
2nd pitch: Climb on the left side on good, but fragile holds to the 1st smc bolt (5.9ish w/ no gear, but great feet), continue up the bulge clipping the next few bolts and placing some gear if you feel like it (0.3"-0.5" & 1" right above bolt), once past the initial 4-5 bolts, you're in the clear as long as you can withstand the pump. Save a 1" for the top after passing the last bolt and right below the belay. Even w/ the older smc/metolius 3/8" bolts, this route can still be fairly well protected w/ gear during the crux section, which will give you some reassurance.
The 2nd pitch anchor is becoming pretty bad, 2/3 3/8" bolts are sticking out of the wall, while belaying you can supplement good pro on your right hand side. 0.75 and a 0.2/0.3. We'll hopefully be replacing the hardware on this route soon. Enjoy!
|By Brian Prince|
From: morro bay, ca
Nov 29, 2012
The steep and clean (from far away) face and exposed postion made this one pretty cool. I mean when I saw the face (it stands out) and that water streak running down the middle, I was a little scared. Cool, sustained, classic RR face climbing. We also ended the first pitch on top of the little pillar. Seemed obvious.
Anyway... You can get down with a 70m if you want. The anchor was extended (wish I had some webbing) probably about a meter and that definitely helped but it was still very close. This was going to the top of the first pitch of La Cierta by the way.
Nov 29, 2012
80m rope or doubles sounds smarter to me. Adding that much cord to an anchor to *barely* make it down is more of a bail technique than standard operating procedure on a trade route. The anchor will be cordless and nice beefy ASCA stainless once I get a day to jump on it again with Shirtless Tendon. Downclimbing a blank overhanging wall because you didn't bring the correct rope to descend sounds like not-fun in my book.
|By Brian Prince|
From: morro bay, ca
Nov 30, 2012
Yeah, I wasn't necessarily recommending only bringing a 70m; It works if you're up there and didn't plan accordingly and/or are just lazy. Anyway, that'd be awesome of you to update the anchor because, yeah, it's pretty shitty lookin. Thanks in advance. Maybe place it a bit lower even ;) There's no reason it needs to be up that high imho