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Breakaway Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bone Jacker T,TR 
Breakaway left T 
Breakaway Right T 
Green Subtrafuge aka Centrifuge T,TR 
Mike's Finger Buckets T 
Piney T,TR 
Superbulge T,TR 
Vertical T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Breakaway Wall  


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Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Frank T on Aug 6, 2008
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Description 

This is the "main wall" of Rocks State Park.

The BREAKAWAY WALL hosts the longest top-rope routes, pushing 80+ feet in length. Be sure both ends of your rope reach the ground before trying these climbs!Although Indys guide recommends a 50m rope minimum, I would say 60m to be safe.

You'll need gear for most anchors here (there are a few natural anchors but will have to be used with your gear placements) and the anchors are usually set from either the EPITAPH WALL (for those climbs left of Vertical) or the platform 15 feet lower down (for Vertical and Piney).

Getting There 

Accessible only by an exposed 4th class/5.l downclimb scramble down past "The Pinnacle Area" (aka Strawberry Jam Pillar). Please be very careful when going down/up this area (especially when it's wet). A fall could spell BAD NEWS (Death perhaps). Rope up if you have to.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.5 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Breakaway Wall:
Vertical   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 70'   
Green Subtrafuge aka Centrifuge   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85'   
Breakaway left   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Breakaway Right   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mike's Finger Buckets   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad   
Piney   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Breakaway Wall

Featured Route For Breakaway Wall
Piney, Rocks State Park

Piney 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  MD : Rocks State Park : Breakaway Wall
This is a fun climb with a big roof at the end. The roof has a crack that runs out the middle of it. Pulling over the roof is the crux of the climb. There aren't many holds above the roof. The climb finishes on a ledge with a pine tree on it. This is the same ledge that Vertical Finishes on. From there you can class 4 scramble down to Strawberry Jam Pillar or walk over to Epitaph Wall. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

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By Frank T
Aug 6, 2008
Some of the information I provided for this area was taken from the book "Climb Maryland" by Mark "Indy" Kochte with his blessing.