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Baby's Head 
Break on Through 
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Wedgie Roof 

Break on Through 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Wills Young
Page Views: 566
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Jan 20, 2011

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Description 

Start on opposing sidepulls. Execute some hard moves right and up using a huge amount of tension and some strong fingers. A beautiful line that doesn't get done very often.
I haven't sent, so I'm reluctant to commit, but this seems really hard for the grade.

Location 

Start about 10 feet to the left of Static Eliminator on a bad left sidepull and good right sidepull.

Protection 

Pads and spotters


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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 26, 2012

I thought it was hard for the grade too until I saw Bernd WALK up it. Repeatedly. Then I thought "hey, I should try again". So I did.

It still felt hard.

I always blame my failure on the size of my fingers, and the fact that they don't fit inside the crux "slot"—which, unfortunately, you have to crank on in order to gain the upper holds. But my failure has more to do with the fact that Break On Through is too hard, and I'm too weak.

Some day.
By Bob Banks
Mar 27, 2012

This one is a gem.

Wills originally called this V10, but 2nd & 3rd ascents (as far as I know Normal Guy and myself, respectively) used a different sequence than he did. Wills repeated it as well with new beta, all of us agreed it wasn't V10. That said, I put a lot of effort to try and do it the original way also (crimping out right after the flake before moving up), and while I had the 'big move' version pretty wired, I could NEVER do it the way Wills did it. Really, really scrunchy and fingery. Would be interesting to know if anyone else ever did it his way.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 27, 2012

I knew I wasn't crazy; I remember the "big edge" you grab used to be bigger. At some point a handful of years ago, it broke. I wasn't trying it much then, but I do remember something being different. The Wills Way seems to be the ticket nowadays.