P1: Climb sentinel chimney to a big ledge. The kind of wide crack right in front of your face is Air Show. It is easy to build a belay here with big nuts/tricams.
P2: From the belay climb right on horizontals until you hit a weird, quartzy crack/corner feature. Blast up this . . . . it stays steep for quite a while. When the angle eases, aim up and a little left towards a crack in the big roof. Cutting feet when you stick the jug earns extra style points. Continue up on easier ground but with a few more steep spots.
Standard Moore's dealio
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Dec 23, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This is a great route to "Break on Through" into the 10's. It's an easy one move crux with good protection. You can belay off of the tree below Airshow.
|By Robert Hutchins|
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Would probably rate this higher if it was more sustained at the grade, and if the climbing quality after the roof was better. Agree with Ryan that this is a good route to break into 10- as the opening 5.8 climbing, though having no difficult individual moves, tests the fitness and skills needed to protect 10- climbing. This route isn't just a boulder move.