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 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock TR 
Atom Smasher S 
Break on Through T 
Break On Through to Chianti T 
Chianti T 
Clear-a-Sill T 
Cruisin' for Burgers T 
Ein Kluck T,TR 
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 
Gibbet, The T 
Incarnation S 
Long John Wall T 
Next to Nearly T 
Rictus T 
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 
Shock Of the New T,TR 
Strawberry Shortcut T 
Sunshine Wall T,TR 
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 
Unlead, The T,TR 
Unsaid, The T 
Uranus T 
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 
Washington Irving T 
White Rabbit T 

Break On Through to Chianti 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Erickson, John Behrens, 1968 (Break on Through)
Page Views: 930
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Sep 22, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Mixing the amazing first pitch of Break on Through with the second pitch of Chianti makes an awesome 5.8+ link while avoiding the 10c difficulties of Break on Through.

Though just a linkup of popular climbs, this is so good it is worthy of a separate entry, and provides a good opportunity to get on Break on Through for those not up for the second pitch.

See each route for the pitch descriptions. This is suitable for 5.8/9 leaders, the pro is great, and there are many rests between short (but very steep) cruxes.

Protection 

Many pieces, up to #4 Camalot for P1, which is very long. P2 is short you will have plenty of gear after P1.


Comments on Break On Through to Chianti Add Comment
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By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Nov 13, 2011

Your can link both pitches from the ground in a 190ft lead. Watch your gear and slings for rope drag, though.
By farkas.time
From: Sheffield, SY
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A great climb. I like the first pitch of BOT better than that of Chianti. Good pro the whole way. There are rap rings from the tree at the top of P1, but our 60m rope didn't make it to the ledge -- best just finish it anyway!