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Good jams to the base of the roof. You can pull the roof using the loose plates, but it seems better to traverse to one side or the other and clip bolt anchors. The good part of the climb is the crack.
This is the crack splitting the uphill side of the boulder.
Gear to #3 or #4 Camalot. If traversing to anchors, watch for the swing if you come off. The PG is more for the topout, though.
Sep 2, 2013
Fun route, but needs anchors below the roof If you decided to top it out beware, most all of the roof sounds hollow.
From: Royal Oak, MI
Oct 3, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
There is now a bolted anchor below the roof and this route is called 5.8 to these anchors.