Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Potter Mountain Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brazilian T 
Garden of Leadin' S 
Groovitational Pull T,S 
Honeybadger S 
Once in a Lifetime S 
Piece Out S 
Poker Face S 
Positive Latitude S 
Pox S 
Stop Making Sense T 
Where the Wild Things Are T,S 

Brazilian 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 198
Submitted By: Benjaminadk on Sep 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Climber on pitch 3 of Brazilian

Description 

A multi-cruxed test piece at the grade with a little bit of everything.

P1 - Climb out of the cave into the chimney and left facing corner. Follow the steepening crack as it narrows down the further left you go. Pull up through the overhanging face into another vertical left facing corner (crux). Continue up corner until easier ground allows a traverse left to anchors below a black wall with a hanging cedar tree on the left hand side.

p2 - Climb straight up through bolts to a horizontal (gear). Pull up onto a small left rising ramp feature - balance. Make a series three desperate moves on tiny crimps and slopers with mostly bad feet clipping bolts as you go. End on easier ground at a big ledge with a bolted anchor. A desperate and demanding pitch.

p3 - The money pitch IMO. Begin up a flaring crack. Make tricky moves up sticky rock to a flake with finger crack underclings (small gear). Work right to good feet and easier climbing up a flake with more optional gear before the next bolt. Now climb through a sea of beautiful dimpled rock trending left. Surmount a steep sustained section (crux) until the angle eases. Continue up the slab with well spaced bolts aiming for a weakness in the headwall. Clip the final bolt and make one more tricky move to bolt anchors.

If all climbers sent discuss the numerous times you were sure you were going to fall and somehow the magical rock at Potter Mt. kept you going.

Location 

About 50' left of Groovatational Pull is an unmistakeable pile of giant boulders that form a cave. Brazilian begins here and climbs into a big left facing corner with a chimney crack that arcs to the left eventually becoming finger sized.

Protection 

Standard Rack.
P1 - we used a BD #4. A #5 would be better.
P2 - draws and BD#2/3
P3 - draws and small cams. we had red and yellow c3s and a blue metolius. a couple other pieces here and there


Comments on Brazilian Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Sep 16, 2014

There's no anchor at the end of P1. I just clip the first bolt of P2 and use that, plus maybe a piece of gear in the giant block you sit on.

To descend from the top anchor, a 70m rope makes it to the P2 anchor. From here a 60m rope is all that is necessary to return to the ground.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Sep 17, 2014

One more thing -- you can link P1 and P2 together, but this makes for rope drag on the very delicate and balancy section of P2. Best to break the pitches, in my opinion.