Brazen Serpent climbs the center of a beautiful west-facing wall of orange rock just before reaching the Golden Gloves area. There are two obvious bolted lines on this wall -- Mirage is the right; Brazen Serpent is the left -- the two routes share the first bolt.
Start at the center of the wall and climb up and right to the first bolt. Continue up to the obvious undercling below the roof. I recommend placing a cam here (there are spots for blue & yellow TCUs as well as a 0.5 Camalot) with a long runner to alleviate the pressure of not blowing the second clip. Pull the roof directly via some powerful moves off decent holds (11c or so). Continue up the face above past many bolts until encountering the crux, a thin, reachy, difficult sequence high on the route. This felt more like 5.12 effort to me, but maybe there's a trick... Continue to a bolted anchor shared with Mirage.
10 draws or so and a couple finger-sized cams.
|Comments on Brazen Serpent
Apr 13, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Could be 12 if you're shorter, I had the crazy gaston undercling at max reach while I poured it on the feet. Fabulous route if you like techy face climbing...I stick clipped the bolt above the roof, alleviating the need for small cams which seemed likely to drag.
Feb 28, 2010
I don't think you need any gear on this route, very easy to the 2nd bolt.
I agree about the upper crux....felt quite hard for 11c, in my opinion much harder than Surf's Up or Sun King.
Some crispy holds on this one...not one I plan on doing that often.