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 ADVANCED
Upper Great Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Few Moments of Pleasure 
Big Steep, The 
Brass Junkie 
Golden Monkey, The 
Hotness, The 
Paul's Boutique 
Wiffle Ball Bat 
Unsorted Routes:

Brass Junkie 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Paul Pomeroy & Chris Taylor
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 491
Submitted By: CHRIS.T on Aug 28, 2011
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Pitch 3 of 'Brass Junkie'. Paul lowering back to t...

Description 

This route starts from the top of Pitch 1 of 'Paul's Boutique

Pitch 1: Climb up and RIGHT from the anchor on easy rock to gain the first bolt. Continue past one more bolt, then fire up the thin crack/seam (crux) placing gear when available to gain the large comfortable belay ledge(the '5.10 ledge'). 90 feet, 5.10+.

(This pitch can also be started from the bolted anchor atop pitch 1 of 'The Big Steep', by climbing left to gain the first bolt)

Pitch 2: Locate a crack in the green/black stripe of lichen that shoots up the left side of the headwall (just left of 'The Hotness'), and follow it for 60 feet. Another 40 feet of easy climbing leads up to a bolted ring anchor near the top of the wall(same anchor as for 'The Hotness'). 100 feet, 5.9+.

Descent: From the top of pitch 3, lower or rappel with a 60 meter rope back to the large belay ledge (the '5.10 ledge'). Then rappel down to the base using the bolted chain anchors for 'The Big Steep'.


Location 

'Brass Junkie' starts from the top of the first pitch of 'Paul's Boutique' and climbs up and RIGHT from the belay to reach the first bolt.


Protection 

Pitch 1: 'Paul's Boutique' start-Twelve bolts(long runners useful), bolted anchor; or 'The Big Steep' start-Eleven bolts, bolted anchor.

Pitch 2: Two bolts, Standard rack, including small wires. Gear anchor.

Pitch 3: Standard rack, including small wires,(one 4" to 4.5" inch cam is very useful). Bolted anchor.

Don't forget the brass.

60 meter rope mandatory. TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE!



Photos of Brass Junkie Slideshow Add Photo
Sara climbing past the last bolt on Pitch 1 of 'Paul's Boutique'.
Sara climbing past the last bolt on Pitch 1 of 'Pa...
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