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 ADVANCED
Moss Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Touch of Class T 
Brass Balls, Steel Nuts, and Sticky Rubber T 
Creation of the World T 
Fear of touching Aerie T 
Hard Times T 
Mistah Luthah T 

Brass Balls, Steel Nuts, and Sticky Rubber 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Peter Kamitses
Page Views: 1,277
Submitted By: Matt McCormick on Sep 21, 2009

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Peter Kamitses on the first ascent of Brass Balls,...

Description 

Yet another amazing addition to the Daks by Peter Kamitses and a prime example of the incredible potential for many more hard routes in this region! Yet to have seen a second ascent!

An amazing route following thin yet solid flakes and sidepulls to a boulder problem crux and onward into sustained arete hugging above. The climbing is characterized by insecure moves on bad feet and few rests.

Location 

This route starts in a small right facing corner with a splitter finger crack in it. Located 20' up and right from where the trail meets the wall and just left around the arete from Mistah Luthah. The route shares an anchor with Mistah Luthah and can be toproped after completing that route.

Protection 

Protection is good but mostly small and well spaced out in spots. The first ascent was done in headpoint style and most would be wise to do the same as placements are subtle and extremely strenuous. Sending ground-up would be proud! Bring many small (purple C3 or black alien) size cams and many rp's. The crux is protected by a #8/#9 BD stopper.


Photos of Brass Balls, Steel Nuts, and Sticky Rubber Slideshow Add Photo
Peter about to enter the crux on the first ascent.
Peter about to enter the crux on the first ascent.

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