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Brangus by the Horns
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in (C) Reddi-Wip Area
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Blood, Sweat and Steers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brangus by the Horns S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Excrement Adventure T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Fingerbang T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Reddi-Wip S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rough Rider S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tall Trad T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Try Trad T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Bolted by Mickey Hazelwood FA: Scott Jones |
| Page Views: | 1,011 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Nov 15, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Fun long route with an overhanging juggy crux down low (feels a bit committing getting to the second bolt) and a steep, pocketed 5.10 headwall to finish. Both sections are very enjoyable. The middle section is easier, and a little bit loose and runout so it subtracts a star. A 50 meter rope might not be long enough for this route.
You could start on Excrement Adventure and move left above the Brangus crux to create a long, fun 5.10 route. Conversely, move right after the Brangus crux to create a more sustained version of Excrement.
You could start on Excrement Adventure and move left above the Brangus crux to create a long, fun 5.10 route. Conversely, move right after the Brangus crux to create a more sustained version of Excrement.
Location
Just left of Excrement Adventure and Blood, Sweat, and Steers, this starts up an overhang to a long face just right of an arete. The next routes further left are Reddi-Whip and Fingerbang.
Protection
7 bolts, two bolt anchor. The anchor bolts are far apart and slings would be helpful to equalize them rather than the common 2-draw set-up.
Supposedly a cam can be placed in between bolts 2 and 3, but I did not have one, and the rock is poor in this section. The climbing is easy, although clipping bolt #3 is awkward, and if you blew it (or a hold broke!) you'd go 40 feet to the ground-assuming you didn't place a piece or it didn't hold.
Supposedly a cam can be placed in between bolts 2 and 3, but I did not have one, and the rock is poor in this section. The climbing is easy, although clipping bolt #3 is awkward, and if you blew it (or a hold broke!) you'd go 40 feet to the ground-assuming you didn't place a piece or it didn't hold.
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