Brangus by the Horns  5.11b PG13

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Bolted by Mickey Hazelwood FA: Scott Jones Season:  any Submitted By:  Charles Vernon on Nov 15, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Fun long route with an overhanging juggy crux down low (feels a bit committing getting to the second bolt) and a steep, pocketed 5.10 headwall to finish. Both sections are very enjoyable. The middle section is easier, and a little bit loose and runout so it subtracts a star. A 50 meter rope might not be long enough for this route.

You could start on Excrement Adventure and move left above the Brangus crux to create a long, fun 5.10 route. Conversely, move right after the Brangus crux to create a more sustained version of Excrement.

Location 

Just left of Excrement Adventure and Blood, Sweat, and Steers, this starts up an overhang to a long face just right of an arete. The next routes further left are Reddi-Whip and Fingerbang.

Protection 

7 bolts, two bolt anchor. The anchor bolts are far apart and slings would be helpful to equalize them rather than the common 2-draw set-up.

Supposedly a cam can be placed in between bolts 2 and 3, but I did not have one, and the rock is poor in this section. The climbing is easy, although clipping bolt #3 is awkward, and if you blew it (or a hold broke!) you'd go 40 feet to the ground-assuming you didn't place a piece or it didn't hold.