|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||David Houston & Kirk Petersen 1986|
|Fixed Hardware:||4 Lead Bolts [details]|
|Submitted By:||David Houston on Feb 14, 2002|
|Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Brand New Cadillac||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By David Houston
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 26, 2002
|I left a wire draw on the third bolt last weekend, but it still seems run out to me now. I guess 16 years and 30 pounds does make a difference. I used a large stopper in the crack between the 2nd and 3rd bolts which looked pretty solid. I'd have no objection if someone wanted to add a bolt.|
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 8, 2002
|I got on this route yesterday (9/6/02) and found it to be an Eldorado gem. It has masterful slab climbing with a stunning postion. Though the crux is runout that only made it better. Please, don't add any bolts to this line. It is perfect as it is. An extra bolt would only cheapen an ascent.|
By Scott Bennett
Oct 19, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great route! Similar in style, difficulty, quality, and excitement to Aerospace. I don't think it deserves an "R" rating, although a fall getting to the third bolt could suck (you wouldn't deck, but the slabby arete below could make things awkward). The gear between the 2nd and 3rd bolt is bomber, I used a purple Camalot.
I did the whole thing as one pitch, up to the bolts atop the fin, which was great.
Rack: Single set of cams to #1 Camalot, some med/lg stoppers, a few long slings.