Brand New Cadillac 5.11b/c R
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| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | David Houston & Kirk Petersen 1986 |
| Fixed Hardware: | 4 Lead Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | David Houston on Feb 14, 2002 |
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Past the hard climbing on "Brand New Cadillac".
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Description This route ascends the 3rd fin from the left to the 1st belay on Highway of Diamonds. Follow the left of two aretes off the ground to the roof. Step onto the left (north) face of the arete and up the short crack. Tiptoe up the thin face crux moves past two bolts and on up to the belay. Rossiter gave this an S which is probably due to my height which led me to space the bolts out pretty far at the crux. Next time I go up there I'll hang a short chain on the last bolt for easy clippage.
Protection Two bolts on the lower arete, two bolts on the upper face, a med-large stopper handy for the crack at the transition
Left side of photo is an overview of the route wit...
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| Comments on Brand New Cadillac |
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By David Houston
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 26, 2002
| I left a wire draw on the third bolt last weekend, but it still seems run out to me now. I guess 16 years and 30 pounds does make a difference. I used a large stopper in the crack between the 2nd and 3rd bolts which looked pretty solid. I'd have no objection if someone wanted to add a bolt. |
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 8, 2002
| I got on this route yesterday (9/6/02) and found it to be an Eldorado gem. It has masterful slab climbing with a stunning postion. Though the crux is runout that only made it better. Please, don't add any bolts to this line. It is perfect as it is. An extra bolt would only cheapen an ascent. |
By Scott Bennett
From: Colorado, etc
Oct 19, 2009
rating: 5.11b
| Great route! Similar in style, difficulty, quality, and excitement to Aerospace. I don't think it deserves an "R" rating, although a fall getting to the third bolt could suck (you wouldn't deck, but the slabby arete below could make things awkward). The gear between the 2nd and 3rd bolt is bomber, I used a purple Camalot.
I did the whole thing as one pitch, up to the bolts atop the fin, which was great.
Rack: Single set of cams to #1 Camalot, some med/lg stoppers, a few long slings.
-Scott |
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