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 ADVANCED
Nude Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Damage T 
Brainwashed T 
Cruisin' in the Nude T,S 
Liar, Liar... S 
Naked Truth, The S 
Numb T 
Unspoken Truth, The S 
Unsorted Routes:

Brainwashed 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Cohen, Lee Miller, 1969
Page Views: 433
Submitted By: Doug Redosh on Aug 9, 2009

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Description 

Great climbing in the corner and exposure on the traverse. Crux may be pulling the slot at the top. The corner has some great moves in the 5.8 - 5.9 range. The rock looks dirty but is actually very good!

Location 

Right side of the buttress, where the trail starts to go up the hillside. One can climb the initial short corner/ramp (awkward 5.8 - takes small alien in the best hold), then downclimb to the left. Alternatively, it looks like one can angle up left to the anchors. Descend by walking right, then some exposed 3rd class scrambling to the gully. There is now a 2 bolt anchor to avoid downclimbing the gully.

Protection 

Trad up to #3 Camalot. 2 pins. One can break it into 2 pitches to avoid rope drag by belaying at the 2 bolt anchor (the top of the Naked Truth) at the bottom of the corner.


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By Doug Redosh
Aug 13, 2009

That 2 bolt anchor for the descent is actually the top of P1 of Cruising in the Nude 5.7