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 ADVANCED
The Brain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Storm 
Brain Teasers 
Brain Tweezers 
Brain Wave 
Butta 
Chunky Munky 
Journey to the Center of the Brain 
M.E.N.S.A. 
Out of Mind 
Travisty, The 
Whiny Bugs 
You Want It, You Got It 

Brain Storm 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Andrew Barry, John Burcham
Page Views: 306
Submitted By: ShockSLL on Jul 19, 2010
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Description 

Climb the crack to the right of a low roof. Continue up through a dihedral then traverse left to finish on "Journey to the Center of the Brain".


Location 

To the right of Journey to the Center of the Brain


Protection 

Standard rack, Bolted anchors with rings



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By Vladimir Tokarev
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

It is easy to follow a line going straight up at the top instead of going left like the directions suggest. Doing that puts you on a sketchier section with no gear placement where you have to traverse to the right to the Brain Teasers anchors. That makes it a bit harder and scarier than a 5.8 should be. I know two people (myself included) who made this mistake.

By Mike Jansen
Sep 22, 2011

I was on this last weekend, we did the same thing. The left anchors are further away from the natural line, but more protected. We just clipped the right anchor.