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 ADVANCED
The Brain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Storm T 
Brain Teasers T 
Brain Tweezers S 
Brain Wave T 
Butta S 
Chunky Monkey S 
Journey to the Center of the Brain T 
M.E.N.S.A. S 
Mulatto Serpent S 
Out of Mind T 
Travisty, The S 
Whiny Bugs S 
You Want It, You Got It S 

Brain Storm 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Andrew Barry, John Burcham
Page Views: 404
Submitted By: ShockSLL on Jul 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

Climb the crack to the right of a low roof. Continue up through a dihedral then traverse left to finish on "Journey to the Center of the Brain".

Location 

To the right of Journey to the Center of the Brain

Protection 

Standard rack, Bolted anchors with rings


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By Vladimir Tokarev
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It is easy to follow a line going straight up at the top instead of going left like the directions suggest. Doing that puts you on a sketchier section with no gear placement where you have to traverse to the right to the Brain Teasers anchors. That makes it a bit harder and scarier than a 5.8 should be. I know two people (myself included) who made this mistake.
By Mike Jansen
Sep 22, 2011

I was on this last weekend, we did the same thing. The left anchors are further away from the natural line, but more protected. We just clipped the right anchor.