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Routes in North Face
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[Redacted] T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Andy & Jason's Mediocre Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birthday Party T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chocolate Flakes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Community Party Chimney T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dark and Long T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Edge of the Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Midnight Oil T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Small Purchase T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Texas Longneck T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Johnny Ray, Larry DeAngelo |
| Page Views: | 701 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Jun 25, 2008 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Easy climbing goes up the chimney to a point where it is capped by a 20-foot roof. The first 18 feet of roof are straightforward, as you can simply continue chimneying until you reach a good ledge just before the lip. Turning the lip of the overhang is not easy, and may be harder if you are not tall. Just above the roof, it is possible to set up a belay at a hanging stance using large 2" to 4" cams. This is desirable in order to restock on gear that may be useful for the next overhang immediately above.
Pitch 2 continues up the crack and over the bulge. A short distance above the second overhang, the crack pretty much ends. Instead of the hoped-for hand jam, the next sixty feet feature a rounded, lichen-covered water runnel followed by a vegetated riparian ecosystem, all with no promise of protection. Strongly motivated to protect the fragile habitat, we rappelled from this point. A single rope will get you to the ground.
Pitch 2 continues up the crack and over the bulge. A short distance above the second overhang, the crack pretty much ends. Instead of the hoped-for hand jam, the next sixty feet feature a rounded, lichen-covered water runnel followed by a vegetated riparian ecosystem, all with no promise of protection. Strongly motivated to protect the fragile habitat, we rappelled from this point. A single rope will get you to the ground.
Location
About a hundred feet to the right of the first pitch of the Magic Triangle route, the lower face is split by a deep chimney that leads to a left-facing corner. Start here.
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