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Magic Mountain
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Brain Drain 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Johnny Ray, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jun 25, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Routes along the base of the Magic Triangle.

Description 

Easy climbing goes up the chimney to a point where it is capped by a 20-foot roof. The first 18 feet of roof are straightforward, as you can simply continue chimneying until you reach a good ledge just before the lip. Turning the lip of the overhang is not easy, and may be harder if you are not tall. Just above the roof, it is possible to set up a belay at a hanging stance using large 2" to 4" cams. This is desirable in order to restock on gear that may be useful for the next overhang immediately above.

Pitch 2 continues up the crack and over the bulge. A short distance above the second overhang, the crack pretty much ends. Instead of the hoped-for hand jam, the next sixty feet feature a rounded, lichen-covered water runnel followed by a vegetated riparian ecosystem, all with no promise of protection. Strongly motivated to protect the fragile habitat, we rappelled from this point. A single rope will get you to the ground.


Location 

About a hundred feet to the right of the first pitch of the Magic Triangle route, the lower face is split by a deep chimney that leads to a left-facing corner. Start here.


Protection 

Cams to 4" plus extra in the finger sizes



Photos of Brain Drain Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the initial chimney from the ledge near the lip of the first overhang.
Looking down the initial chimney from the ledge ne...
Looking up the route from the base.  Rap is from a fixed hex.
Looking up the route from the base. Rap is from a...
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