Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
L to R R to L Alpha
Easy climbing goes up the chimney to a point where it is capped by a 20-foot roof. The first 18 feet of roof are straightforward, as you can simply continue chimneying until you reach a good ledge just before the lip. Turning the lip of the overhang is not easy, and may be harder if you are not tall. Just above the roof, it is possible to set up a belay at a hanging stance using large 2" to 4" cams. This is desirable in order to restock on gear that may be useful for the next overhang immediately above.
About a hundred feet to the right of the first pitch of the Magic Triangle route, the lower face is split by a deep chimney that leads to a left-facing corner. Start here.
Cams to 4" plus extra in the finger sizes