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Desperado Wall
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Brain Damage 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Nathan Brown
Page Views: 489
Submitted By: nbrown on Aug 19, 2008
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Photo compliments of Dennis M.
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  • Description 

    This is a nice route that has quite a few hidden holds. Climb hard moves past the first bolt to a good stance (stick clip usefull here). From the good stance, clip the bolt out left, then crank up and left to another stance at the 3rd bolt. Negotiate the crux to great holds and another bolt. Long moves get you to some gear, and easier terrain. Continue up to the 2 bolt anchor above the moss pad.


    Location 

    Right of Hocus Focus, and left Holy Slabbath.


    Protection 

    light rack



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    Photo compliments of Dennis M.
    Photo compliments of Dennis M.
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    By BruceBurgessNC
    Apr 5, 2009

    In crisp, low humidity conditions the grade is closer to 11a/b. This is an excellent pitch.