Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft (29 m)
FA: Adam Hudson & Stephen Greenway, 1992
Page Views: 901 total · 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Temporary trail closure & Thumb and Needle Closures - resolved with The Thumb Open Space creation DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a nice, little line with fixed pro on the NE face of The Thumb. It has a pleasant 2nd half of face climbing, which is better than it looks from the ground. The fixed protection on the climb is a bit tough to see from the ground. It shares a start with Right Center, but if you're on toprope, you can start to the left with more face climbing.

Climb up to a short, left-facing, left-arcing dihedral about 20 feet up with a fixed orange TCU. Get up on a small ledge. You can get a couple small wires (#4, 5 BD wires) above the ledge. Spy the 1st baby angle pin. Climb up to this, pass a 2nd baby angle. Clip the fixed wire. Move past (10a), clip a Bugaboo pin. Now, you are faced with a choice. You can go up & left on bigger holds directly to the bolt & skipping the final pin (5.9 PG-13) or go right, slightly down (10b), then up to the final baby angle pin. Move up & then left to the bolt, clip, and fire for the 2 bolt anchor. There are some funky, big, thin, welded rings on the links. There are also a couple hollow, aluminum, rap rings. Rappel 95 feet.

On hot days, it is in the shade by mid-afternoon.

Location Suggest change

This is on the NE side of Thumb Rock. It is probably 50 ft up & R from where the trail meets the rock.

Protection Suggest change

Blue & yellow Aliens, medium wire, #2 Camalot, medium wire, #4 & 5 BD wires, 7 QDs (for 4 pins, 1 bolt, 1 fixed wire, 1 fixed TCU), + a 60m rope.

Photos

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