Brace Y'self aka Pin Job
|349 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10 [details]|
|FA: ||Adam Hudson & Stephen Greenway, 1992|
|Season: ||warmer, drier times prefe|
|Submitted By: ||Leo Paik on Sep 9, 2006|
BETA PHOTO: Best attempt at topo of upper face section. Anoth...
This is a nice, little line with fixed pro on the NE face of The Thumb. It has a pleasant 2nd half of face climbing, which is better than it looks from the ground. The fixed protection on the climb is a bit tough to see from the ground. It shares a start with Right Center, but if you're on TR, you can start to the left with more face climbing.
Climb up to a short, L-facing, L-arcing dihedral about 20 ft up with a fixed orange TCU. Get up on a small ledge. You can get a couple small wires (#4, 5 BD wires) above the ledge. Spy the 1st baby angle pin. Climb up to this, pass a 2nd baby angle. Clip the fixed wire. Move past (10a), clip a Bugaboo pin. Now, you are faced with a choice. You can go up & L on bigger holds directly to the bolt & skipping the final pin (5.9 PG-13) or go R, slightly down (10b), then up to the final baby angle pin. Move up & then L to the bolt, clip, and fire for the 2 bolt anchor. There are some funky, big, thin, welded rings on the links. There are also a couple hollow, aluminum, rap rings. Rappel 95 ft.
On hot days, it is in the shade by mid afternoon.
This is on the NE side of Thumb Rock. It is probably 50 ft up & R from where the trail meets the rock.
Blue & yellow Aliens, medium wire, #2 Camalot, medium wire, #4 & 5 BD wires, 7 QDs (for 4 pins, 1 bolt, 1 fixed wire, 1 fixed TCU), + a 60m rope.