|779 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10d [details]|
|FA: ||Pat Kingsbury, Bryan Schmitz, Trevor Bowman, Dan Ryan, Tyler Gittins 8/18/09|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Trevor Bowman on Sep 7, 2009|
Pat going ground-up on the upper headwall. Photo b...
This surprising (and surprisingly good!) new line snakes it's way up the north face of the buttress between the old-school classic Farewell to Arms and the bold-school testpiece Mens Rea. Start on the Mens Rea blocky groove for the first 15' or so; M.R. continues more or less up and slightly right, while B.B. continues up the left-angling central groove-crack on the face. Cut up and right out of the groove at about 1/3 height and up a short clean crack to the obvious horizontal below the upper headwall. Make an acrobatic traverse left 5' on the horizontal until you can stand up; follow thin seams straight up the awesome headwall into flared double cracks and a small ledge beneath the final exit cracks. Take the center exit crack to the upper ledge and belay (or solo 5.5 up the final 15' step to the top of the buttress).
This line has quality, engaging climbing the whole way, especially on the headwall which offers the finest black Gallatin rock with excellent square-cut edges and just enough slots for gear to make it reasonable. The name is a tongue-in-cheek play on the unique elegance that the area epitomizes in more ways than one. Enjoy!
On the north face of Ashes of Stone Buttress between Farewell to Arms and Mens Rea Variation.
Cams through BD #3, with doubles of small TCUs and C3s, stoppers, offset TCUs handy.
Pat on the cruxy horizontal traverse. Photo by Ty ...
Bryan works out the lower section on the first att...