|Hillbilly Rock 1
It is a fairly powerful route for its 35 feet of climbing and its moderate grade. Shorter folks may have trouble at the 1st bolt and call it 11c, but strong, taller climbers might call it 10+. Fire up to positive but small holds to the left of the 1st bolt. Go left first, then up to a good side-pull/pocket. Then, go R, then hand-traverse left. To finish, there are 2 ways to go. Left seemed easier. Good 1-2-3 punch with Like Water for Bob, this, and I Reckon. Nice route, especially if your time is limited & your partner is rumbling about going to Flagstaff to get a pump!
For the Hymenoptera-sensitive, there were wasps in the first side-pull pocket of this climb!
This is the 2nd climb from the left on this cliff. It looks harder than it is.
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
|By Kevin Neilson|
Sep 21, 2008
Nice climb. The crux getting to bolt 2 can be a bit of a stretch for the short. I got my left hand on a crimp, got my feet high, and reached way up for the pocket directly to the left of bolt 2. From there, it is a balancy move up and right before clipping 3. At the top, go a little left when going over the upper ledge.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
A locker might be advisable on the first draw, because the awkward first crux means that falls may happen on that single bolt. Best to have it clipped in well.