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Spiral Staircase area
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Boxed In (aka Stemcicle) 

WI5- M6+

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus: WI5- M6 [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler & Stephan, 1996
Season: Dec-April
Page Views: 847
Submitted By: Rob Griz on Jan 25, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Popping out on the outside of the corner. It helps...

Description 

The Stemcicle follows the left-facing corner, just left of the Spiral Staircase ice. Stick clip the first of 2 bolts or bring along a 0.5-.75 cam and stem off ice to reach high to place it under the lower roof. Work up on ultra-thin crack placements to the upper roof and stem. If the free-hanger is fat enough, reach out and stab it from behind. Use all the ab strength and commit to the ice. Follow the candled ice up past a mini ledge (rest) and up into the saplings above. This route has an old, broken knifeblade indicating an earlier ascent? If the dagger does not drop down, one can turn the roof to the right via a strenuous reach to the ice on the edge of the Staircase.

Location 

This is just left of the infamous Spiral Staircase.

Protection 

2 bolts, a few shorter screws, and a 0.5-.75 cam.


Photos of Boxed In (aka Stemcicle) Slideshow Add Photo
E.M. pulling the roof of Stemcicle.  The pillar ha...
E.M. pulling the roof of Stemcicle. The pillar ha...
Following the line to the trees.
Following the line to the trees.
The holds are there... just look for them!
The holds are there... just look for them!

Comments on Boxed In (aka Stemcicle) Add Comment
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By jack roberts
Mar 19, 2010

This route was first climbed in 1996 by Charlie Fowler and his partner, named Stephan. Instead of the two bolts that have just recently been placed three pitons were fixed (later two) and left in place.

The original name given by Charlie, which I feel should still be honored, is "BOXED IN".
By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Mar 20, 2010

Boxed In or Thinking Outside of the Box...however you look at it, it has become a route worth jumping on. Thanks to Jack for digging into the archives and finding the FA info on this excellent line. If you get a chance to climb it, you will enjoy passing a single piece of the original route history, Charlie's broken KB, up on the thin corner. Just did this route the other night, sooooo good! Thanks again, Jack!
By Chacal
Mar 3, 2012

Super fun route! I loved the lower moves following the seam into the corner. Once there, the feet are there but thin, just find them. The crack has good tools. Finding your exit onto the ice is cool, good when the ice is low and you can stem. A couple powerful moves get you on the ice.