BETA PHOTO: Short easy wall suitable for bouldering.
A mixed conglomerate area that has about 7 sport routes and many trad leads. Most routes can be toproped. Beware the rock can be loose and pebbles can break off when you least expect.
From the south, east or west: drive (probably via PA 78 or 81) to route 72 north near Swatara township. Follow it through Swatara Gap - crossing the Appalachian Trail - and through Swatara State Park as it becomes route 443 north.
2.1 miles past the 443 north junction, turn left onto Gold Mine Road. Follow it a total of 4.4 miles, over a short, steep mountain pass (Blue Mountain) and a second uphill grade. The pullout will be the largest on your right hand (east) side, with room for several cars to park before the dirt pullout road is blocked by a closed gate.
Park here and walk east past the gates until you reach a burn site - if you're attentive you might see a small wood sign saying "Boxcar Rd" on the left. Continue waling and take the first real trail on the right (southward). This takes you to the back side of the rocks near the "turtles head" (Moby Neil end) on the Main Wall.
The coordinates here are for the Main Wall parking lot.
Directions if driving from the north (I think - please verify, I haven't confirmed this). Heading south on Gold Mine Road, go over the first mountain. Continue down until you pass the rail bed. The pullout is third pullout on the left side.
Crimpy and requires some solid footwork. To each his own but I would not reccomend this route to someone just breaking into the difficulty level. Its not unsafe, just spicy a bit. ...[more]Browse More Classics in PA
Be cautious when setting cams here. To maximize the potential that the cam will do as you want/expect (not walk, move, pop out, hold the fall, etc.) DO NOT place the lobes on the pebbles. When lobes are placed on the smooth pebbles the cams can SOMETIMES (not always) just pull out, pop out (because now the cam is too small) or walk crazily.
You do what you want but be mindful if you wish to rely on your cams regularly place the lobes inbetween the pebbles on the primary (glue) stone OR accecpt the risk of a higher probability that your cam WONT hold due to pebble popping or slipping off of pebble and now not (probably) a bomber fit.
Enjoy this fun place and be mindful that LAW ENFORCEMENT officers do patrol here so "mind your manners" please and act as a solid representitive for the climbing community.