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DescriptionBox Springs Mountain Park in Riverside offers some very nice climbing on good granite, if you don’t mind short climbs. There are some walls of greater height but they are in more remote locations and are to my knowledge undeveloped. Six main walls lie within easy access, surrounded by many smaller boulders, offering great potential for bouldering problems. Most of the climbs are bolted sport routes but there are a few nice cracks that protect well on gear. There are several TR problems but then most of the lines in Box Springs can be easily set up for top-rope. Although certainly not a destination crag, Box Springs is a great place to spend the day when the more popular spots in Southern California are experiencing highs in the 40’s or 50’s; Riverside tends to be 10 or more degrees warmer than the high desert. There are potential access problems for the climbing areas of Box Springs; please be sure to read the following directions as well as any access updates that may be posted. Getting ThereBox Springs Mountain Park is located just off the CA-60 in Riverside, on the flanks of Box Springs Mountain, up behind the UC Riverside. If coming from LA or points north, take the CA-60 east and exit to Blaine St. east. If coming from points south or east (San Diego, Moreno Valley), take the CA-60 west and exit Watkins Dr. north. This takes you through a residential neighborhood with plenty of stop signs but avoids most of the aggravation of the perpetually-under-construction CA-60. From Watkins, turn right on Blaine. Park at the wide gravel area at the end of Blaine. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Box Springs Mountain Park:
Knobulator 5.3 TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet Knob Wall
Green Crack 5.3 Trad, 1 pitch, 25 feet Two Trees Trail Area
Solarizer 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet Two Trees Trail Area
Pimple Patrol 5.5 Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet Knob Wall
Broken Heart 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 20 feet Main Wall Left
Devil Man 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 25 feet Main Wall Left
Good Son 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet Main Wall Left
Cookie Monster 5.9 TR, 1 pitch, 20 feet Main Wall Left
Weak Sister 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet Main Wall Left
Evil Eye 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 20 feet Main Wall Left
Cavity Search 5.10a TR, 1 pitch, 15 feet Main Wall Left
Hands off the Crack 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 20 feet Main Wall Left
Little Jerry Seinfeld 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 20 feet Main Wall Left
Creature Comforts 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet Main Wall Left
Blue Collar 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet Knob Wall
Drunken Indian 5.10c R Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet Knob Wall
Drill Music 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet Sleepers Wall
Swirly Bird 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet Sleepers Wall
Acrobatic Porno Tricks 5.12b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet Sleepers Wall
Featured Route For Box Springs Mountain Park
Drunken Indian 5.10c R CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : ... : Knob Wall
This climb, with the politically incorrect name, starts directly below the short vertical crack. Begin on tiny and improbable edges, carefully working up the seam past one bolt to the horizontal. Get into the hand crack and follow up and right as it widens into a ledge. Finish at the anchor for Blue Collar. This is a dangerous lead as a fall from the crux could land your back or head on the end of a block that is only a couple feet away from the wall, directly in line with the route. Starti...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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