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Box Springs Mountain Park
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Box Springs Mountain Park 


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Elevation: 1,600'
Lat, Long: 33.9893, -117.3086 Map
Page Views: 23,953. Good page? (4 likes)   
Administrators: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Feb 3, 2008

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Parking listed elsewhere is on private property MORE INFO >>>


BETA PHOTO: Overview of the approach up to the Main Wall.

Description 

Box Springs Mountain Park in Riverside offers some very nice climbing on good granite, if you don’t mind short climbs. There are some walls of greater height but they are in more remote locations and are to my knowledge undeveloped. Six main walls lie within easy access, surrounded by many smaller boulders, offering great potential for bouldering problems. Most of the climbs are bolted sport routes but there are a few nice cracks that protect well on gear. There are several TR problems but then most of the lines in Box Springs can be easily set up for top-rope. Although certainly not a destination crag, Box Springs is a great place to spend the day when the more popular spots in Southern California are experiencing highs in the 40’s or 50’s; Riverside tends to be 10 or more degrees warmer than the high desert. There are potential access problems for the climbing areas of Box Springs; please be sure to read the following directions as well as any access updates that may be posted.

A note regarding star ratings: The routes here are very short and it has been my experience that most climbers don’t think much of short routes. Therefore they tend to be quite stingy when it comes to awarding stars. I have always held that star ratings should be specific to the area; call it a suggestion as to the better (or worse) climbs in that area. That being said, a 4 star climb in an area such as this probably could never compare to even a 2 star route in Owens or Williamson. But even a one star route in Box Springs has something fun or challenging to offer and is worthy of a go.


Getting There 

Box Springs Mountain Park is located just off the CA-60 in Riverside, on the flanks of Box Springs Mountain, up behind the UC Riverside. If coming from LA or points north, take the CA-60 east and exit to Blaine St. east. If coming from points south or east (San Diego, Moreno Valley), take the CA-60 west and exit Watkins Dr. north. This takes you through a residential neighborhood with plenty of stop signs but avoids most of the aggravation of the perpetually-under-construction CA-60. From Watkins, turn right on Blaine. Park at the wide gravel area at the end of Blaine.

Note: While there is a closer parking area listed elsewhere, it requires parking on and walking through private property. Although the use of this undeveloped house lot is apparently okay with the owners, I would advise that we avoid potential problems and park at the end of Blaine. The extra 5 – 10 minutes hiking that this adds is over easy ground with little vertical gain.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Box Springs Mountain Park:
Knobulator   5.3     TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Knob Wall
Green Crack   5.3     Trad, 1 pitch, 25 feet   Two Trees Trail Area
Solarizer   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Two Trees Trail Area
Pimple Patrol   5.5     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Knob Wall
Broken Heart   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 20 feet   Main Wall Left
Devil Man   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 25 feet   Main Wall Left
Good Son   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet   Main Wall Left
Cookie Monster   5.9     TR, 1 pitch, 20 feet   Main Wall Left
Weak Sister   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet   Main Wall Left
Evil Eye   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 20 feet   Main Wall Left
Release   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Knob Wall
Cavity Search   5.10a     TR, 1 pitch, 15 feet   Main Wall Left
Hands off the Crack   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 20 feet   Main Wall Left
Little Jerry Seinfeld   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 20 feet   Main Wall Left
Creature Comforts   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Main Wall Left
Blue Collar   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Knob Wall
Drunken Indian   5.10c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Knob Wall
Drill Music   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet   Sleepers Wall
Swirly Bird   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet   Sleepers Wall
Acrobatic Porno Tricks   5.12b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet   Sleepers Wall
Browse More Classics in Box Springs Mountain Park

Featured Route For Box Springs Mountain Park
DI, showing the back-breaker block in front.

Drunken Indian 5.10c R  CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : ... : Knob Wall
This climb, with the politically incorrect name, starts directly below the short vertical crack. Begin on tiny and improbable edges, carefully working up the seam past one bolt to the horizontal. Get into the hand crack and follow up and right as it widens into a ledge. Finish at the anchor for Blue Collar. This is a dangerous lead as a fall from the crux could land your back or head on the end of a block that is only a couple feet away from the wall, directly in line with the route. Starti...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Box Springs Mountain Park Slideshow Add Photo
Looking back down the hill; Blaine St. visible accross the green pasture on the left side of the picture.

BETA PHOTO: Looking back down the hill; Blaine St. v...

The Equestrian trailhead.  The gate is up to the left.  The car here is just begging for a ticket.

BETA PHOTO: The Equestrian trailhead. The gate is up to the l...

Entrance (?) to the park.  The Main Wall is visible on the hillside to the left.

BETA PHOTO: Entrance (?) to the park. The Main Wall is visibl...

This is the start of the trail, leading up to the crags, from the utility road.

BETA PHOTO: This is the start of the trail, leading up to the ...

On the trail to the Main Wall.

BETA PHOTO: On the trail to the Main Wall.

New signage by trail head to Main Wall.

New signage by trail head to Main Wall.

We had some trouble finding the crags but hopefully this will help you!

BETA PHOTO: We had some trouble finding the crags but hopefull...


Comments on Box Springs Mountain Park Add Comment
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By The Freehlings
Nov 19, 2012

It looks like you can now park closer. I haven't been here in over a year, so I was surprised to see a new-ish sign on Two Trees allowing parking.