Probably the most popular location in Maple Canyon, the Box Canyon area is located in a very narrow canyon whose mouth is located just north of the road (on the right side when driving upcanyon). Because of its narrowness and its north-south direction Box Canyon is cool and shady almost all day.
There are a handful of moderate routes here (particularly at EFS Wall) but the majority of the dozens of bolted routes are 5.12 or harder.
Note that Box Canyon is privately owned and as such access is at the pleasure of the landowners. Do your part to preserve access and be a good citizen: no dogs, be considerate of others (especially hikers), and definitely leave Box Canyon and head for the campground toilets when nature beckons.
Drive .8 miles from the mouth of Maple Canyon where the paved road turns to dirt road and park at one of several pullouts. The canyon mouth is dark and obvious from the road.
Less powerful than the other routes on the Cobble Roof, but still bouldery. The classic 5.13a... in the Box, seems a bit stiff for the grade.Start up somewhat insecure vertical climbing for a couple of bolts. Where the angle steepens move right then up into an undercling then jugs, finishing with a big move to the first horizontal. You can rest here or if you are a knee-baring master use the next hole to rest in. A couple of moves takes you up to that hole and a knee-bar off of a smooth cobble. ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Good point. The (ostensibly climber-friendly) landowners at Roadside Crag at the Red River Gorge claimed that the unapproved addition of fixed hardware was one of the biggest reason for their decision to close the Red's most popular crag. Worth considering.
I'm also concerned about the amount of dog crap that develops in this canyon during the summer. It's all washed out now due to some of the recent heavy rains, but for a while in the middle of the summer, that place was starting to get pretty gross. I think most climbers are pretty good about leaving the canyon to tend to business, but all these little things can lead to a potential closure if we are not careful. The Box is a great place to climb, it would be a shame to lose it.