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DescriptionWhile Box Canyon does not have the quanity that other areas in the park have, it does offer several of the alpha classics to be found. The largest boulder in this grouping, and maybe the largest boulder in Wisconsin, contains in all rights the most classic problem at Governor Dodge. The first known ascent of this overhanging line of sidepull pockets and laybacks was done in the mid eighties with safe estimates putting it at around 20+ years old. However since this is one of the clearest areas to see off the road, one has to wonder if this rig didn't fall sooner to unknown hands. Getting ThereFrom the front office take a right and head towards Cox Hollow lake. There will be a windy section in the road skirted by praries that eventually drops down into the "hollow". At the base of the hill are two parking areas, one on either side of the main road. Park in the left one signed Box Canyon. You can see the boulders from this parking area. You just drove by them... The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Box Canyon Boulders:
Corleone's Corner V-easy Boulder, 12 feet Godfather Boulder
UFO Slab V0 Boulder, 15 feet Seein' Elle Boulder
Pushbroom V0+ Boulder, 12 feet Mustache Boulder
Prickler V2 Boulder, 10 feet Prickler Boulder
The Good Times Are Killing Me V2-3 Boulder Godfather Boulder
Tick You V3- Boulder, 15 feet Tick Boulder
Soul Patch V3 PG13 Boulder, 25 feet Mustache Boulder
Cosa Nostra V4 PG13 Boulder Godfather Boulder
The Godfather V4 Boulder Godfather Boulder
Midwest Mustache Ride V4 Boulder, 12 feet Mustache Boulder
All In All V5 Boulder Godfather Boulder
All In The Family V5 Boulder Godfather Boulder
An Offer He Couldn't Refuse V5 Boulder, 15 feet Godfather Boulder
The Lorax V5 Boulder, 15 feet Mustache Boulder
Flavor Savor V5 PG13 Boulder, 20 feet Mustache Boulder
Sleeping With The Fishes V6- Boulder, 15 feet Godfather Boulder
Prick V6 Boulder, 10 feet Prickler Boulder
Cannons V6-7 Boulder, 1 pitch, 10 feet Cannon Boulder
Ehhh Tony V7 Boulder, 25 feet Godfather Boulder
The Basilisk AKA Cannons Sit V8+ Boulder Cannon Boulder
Featured Route For Box Canyon Boulders
The Good Times Are Killing Me V2-3 WI : Governor Dodge State Park : ... : Godfather Boulder
You can't miss this line on the north side of the big boulder. Look for the set of solitary pockets out on the face. Then look at how perfectly smooth the wall is below them...Nary a wee divot nor miniscule tooth. Sept there is one out there. Start out on the boulder to the right of the pockets. With a right hand side pull on the arete, hop up into the pockets and get established. A small foot pocket way out left will let you gun it up to the lip. Climb into the shallow trough. Pretty fun...[more] Browse More Classics in WI
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