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Bowman Valley

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B - Word 
Bowman Bouldering 
Boy Scout Wall 
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Cove, The 
Fun House, The 
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High Lands 
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Rediscovery Dome 
Scottland 
Windy Point 

Bowman Valley  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,500'
Location: 39.4443, -120.656 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,805
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kurt Swanson on Jan 13, 2012
Forecast:
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View looking east from the top of the southern dam...

Description 

Bowman Valley (sometimes called Bowman Lake) is a series of secluded crags beneath the Bowman Lake Dam where a number of easy to difficult sport climbs have been developed in recent years, with great deal of sport climbing development opportunity here. The rock is heavily textured granite, with excellent friction, and ranges from slab to overhanging roofs with permadraws.

Free camping can be had here, and the only traffic the road gets is National Forest staff, ATV enthusiasts, and climbers. There is excellent swimming in the lake by climbing above Larry Land onto the damn and crossing over the spillway.

Getting There 

The approach varies depending upon the vehicle used to enter on the National Forest, but a rental car can usually make it within a few miles of the approach trailheads. A good SUV can take you all the way. Take Bowman Lake Road off of Highway 20, usually approached via Interstate 80. Once you turn off of Interstate 80 and head down highway 20 (toward Nevada city) you go 3.5 miles and you will turn right onto Bowman lake road. Continue on Bowman Lake road for 13 1/2 miles and you will come to a bridge below Bowman Lake dam. This bridge will be the landmark for the areas in Bowman Valley. The road starts out paved but the last 5 miles are gravel and a little rough in spots. See the GPS location for the precise location of the area to park in.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.5 miles from here

58 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',3],['5.8',5],['5.9',3],['5.10',16],['5.11',17],['5.12',10],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bowman Valley:
Candy Land   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Candy Land
Candy Man   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   Candy Land
Pork Chop   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Boy Scout Wall
Rock n Rolla   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Candy Land
Shangri-La   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 90'   Rediscovery Dome
Cheers and Jeers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Rediscovery Dome
Sugar Rush   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Candy Land
Flying the Coop   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Boy Scout Wall
Kung Fu Panda   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   The Gum Drop
Hello Larry   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Larry Land
Hot Rod   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 65'   Larry Land
Last Boy Scout   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   Boy Scout Wall
Larry Land   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 75'   Larry Land
Super Natural   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   Larry Land
Browse More Classics in Bowman Valley

Featured Route For Bowman Valley
Mike Carville exiting the roof on Porn Star .12b. Larry Land, Bowman Lake Valley, CA. photo: jim thornburg.

Porn Star 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Larry Land
Climb Super Natural .11c past anchors and then continue through giant blocky roof with fixed draws....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Bowman Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Bowman Lake, CA. Overview map.
BETA PHOTO: Bowman Lake, CA. Overview map.
Mike Carville on the Porn Star .12b. Larry Land, Bowman Lake, CA. photo: jim thornburg
Mike Carville on the Porn Star .12b. Larry Land, B...
Bowman Valley from Windy Point.
Bowman Valley from Windy Point.
Sanam on Rock n Rolla .9. Candy Land, Bowman Valley, CA. photo: jim thornburg
Sanam on Rock n Rolla .9. Candy Land, Bowman Valle...
Gabe Metzger on Super Natural .11c. Larry Land, Bowman, Ca.
Gabe Metzger on Super Natural .11c. Larry Land, Bo...
Josh Horniak on the first ascent of Larry Land .11c. Bowman Valley, CA.
Josh Horniak on the first ascent of Larry Land .11...
Larry Land. Bowman Lake, CA.
Larry Land. Bowman Lake, CA.
Josh on Sub Text .12a.
Josh on Sub Text .12a.
Bowman Lake Valley, CA.
Bowman Lake Valley, CA.
Simeon and Mike on Predator 11d. The Cove. Bowman Lakes.
Simeon and Mike on Predator 11d. The Cove. Bowman ...
derrick lindsay on shangri-la 5.10-, rediscovery dome, bowman lake, ca.
derrick lindsay on shangri-la 5.10-, rediscovery d...
Hansi Standtheiner on the third ascent of Thrillbilly .11d Bowman Lake, CA.
Hansi Standtheiner on the third ascent of Thrillbi...
FA- Nick Muehlhausen <br />Riding around and lichen it- V8
FA- Nick Muehlhausen
Riding around and lichen it- ...

Comments on Bowman Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
By jesselyb
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Jan 13, 2012
Anyone have specific route info? I hear there's supposed to be a guidebook coming out with Bowman in it, but anybody want to help a guy out in the mean time?
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jan 13, 2012
Kurt, the wall you called "Steve's Slab Crag" is actually called 'The Funhouse."

...and as far as more info, there will be a new guidebook in the near future.
By Kurt Swanson
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jan 14, 2012
some info about routes at Larry Land can be gleaned here:

supertopo.com/climbing/thread....

Having been there myself, I have just two pieces of beta to offer: easy stuff, go to the funhouse, hard stuff go to Larry Land.
By mike carville
Feb 16, 2013
Bowman Valley off I-80/Hwy 20 past the Emeralds (13 miles). Some of the best moderate sport cragging in the Tahoe area. So far about 70 routes - mostly 5.8 - 5.12. Free camping, excellent swimming. Larry Land lies below the cement dam/Bowman Lake, Candy Land and the Cove across the flume base of the descent road (Windy Point). Plus Scott Land, Ire Land, B-Word. All offer excellent climbing of all grades. Cheers.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 20, 2013
Thanks for posting this area up!
By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Jul 4, 2013
so many effing bugs here!! but the amazing climbing makes up for it, well worth the trip out!!
By mike carville
Sep 1, 2014
Best time to climb here is spring and fall. Best places to camp are around the Cove/Candy Land and just past washout on left near B Word.