Bowling Balls and BB Brains
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Old-school testpiece. Wendell maintained that this thing was safe to lead since small cams hit the marketplace, the second guy to try to lead this one broke his leg. After climbing it I can see why-this one is a highball problem with a bad landing (boulders) followed by the usual Willow Springs mellowness. The .10 moves are thin face and unprotected, the easier crack up top protects well with a single rack. I brought every small cam known to man, but nothing's going to keep you off the ground if you fall. The only placement possible down low is behind a paper-thin flake that you need as a handhold and you have to pull on gently so you don't break it. Placing behind the flake means if you fall you're still decking, and you destroy the only decent hold in the sequence. Sack up for this one or bring your sex pad and a spotter.
Grey, waterworn face up to seam 25'-30' left of Little Big Horn.
Nothing through the crux, up higher solid gear helps you relax. Have a .5 camalot ready to go and you'll be happy to have a piece in at 25'.
By Patrick Mulligan
Aug 20, 2012
I belayed and followed JT up this thing about a decade ago. Jeremy had decided that morning after following up to 10+ but not leading anything harder than 8 that he was going to step it up. While he climbed this on site, he started shaking with a major case of Elvis leg well of the deck and mid-crux. It was so bad that Chris Burton and I very quietly started talking about how to break his fall. He pulled it together and climbed through no problem.