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Durrance Approach
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Black-Jones Direct T 
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 
Centennial 
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Double-Edged Blade T 
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Late for Dinner T 
Liken Lichen T 
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Wiessner T 

Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Season: winter
Page Views: 2,880
Submitted By: russellHOBART on Mar 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Eleven year old Joelle Gunnels practices unique of...

Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

It's best to use this approach when there are no climbers on durrance and during the winter when the normal approach has snow and ice on it. The right crack has better pro but either one is run out.

Location 

keep following the trail until you get to the steel viewing tubes then head up

Protection 

medium to large protection


Photos of Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route Slideshow Add Photo
A cold winter day in the "warm" Bowling ...
A cold winter day in the "warm" Bowling ...
Queen Shauna displays her excellent face climbing ...
Queen Shauna displays her excellent face climbing ...
Bowling Alley aka Durrance approach route
BETA PHOTO: Bowling Alley aka Durrance approach route
either obvious crack will lead to good belay ancho...
BETA PHOTO: either obvious crack will lead to good belay ancho...
Thirteen year old Jordan Gunnels on family day...
Thirteen year old Jordan Gunnels on family day...
Joelle enjoys the sunshine at the anchors.
Joelle enjoys the sunshine at the anchors.
Matt G. Leading us up the approach.  Labor day wee...
Matt G. Leading us up the approach. Labor day wee...

Comments on Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route Add Comment
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By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Mar 17, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

WEAR A HELMET! This area is called the "Bowling Alley" for a very good reason! Regarding protection, the left crack will eat as many #2, #3 and #4 Camalots as you can beg, borrow or steal...
By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Mar 18, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

This is a nice warm up route for the Durrance and takes as much gear as you want to take the time to place.

There is a set of anchors straight up from the start, but I usually put a long runner on those and keep heading left, building an anchor near the start of the leaning tower. This helps avoid any possible falls on the exposed traverse.
By DreadsNropes
From: sd
Nov 5, 2012

did this one afternoon/evening. had no beta and didn't even own any pro. it was a little nerving at the "crux" which wouldn't been having have even a single placement. undoubtedly left me looking for more. can't wait to go back.
By Jason O.
Aug 28, 2013

Can you climb directly to the base of the durrance on this, or do you belay and then traverse left to start the route proper? And are there bolts at the base of the leaning column? I'm just trying to determine if doing the 5.4 bowling alley pitch is worth the extra time spent climbing... Any/all suggestions appreciated!
By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Aug 29, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Jason, this approach will ultimately take you to the base of the Leaning Column. Most folks "scramble" left, but short roping it is much safer. There are no bolts at the base of the Leaning Column, however you can build your own anchor quite nicely with a couple .75 C3's. Climb safe!
By Steve123
Sep 23, 2013

Jason, it is common to clip a long sling to one of the anchor bolts and then continue your lead, traversing left. Go past the trees to a nice ledge area at the base of the Leaning Column pitch, where you can build a gear anchor. The Guidebook by Orenczak and Lynn says to build your anchor at the tree, but the ledge about 10 feet farther is better.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

This didn't feel remotely PG13 to me...