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Bow Valley

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Barrier Mountain 
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Playground, The 

Bow Valley 


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Location: 51.0884, -115.3496 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 52,743
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Sandro on Dec 4, 2006
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Lac des Arcs.

Description 

Southern Alberta's major climbing area. Centered around the town of Canmore, the Bow Valley has a sport crag in every drainage, and long multi-pitch trad routes on most of the big walls that tower over the valley. The rock season is short (May-August) in most years, but fortunately the Bow Valley also has world-class ice climbing in the winter.


Getting There 

Canmore is one hour west of Calgary on the trans-Canada Highway


128 Total Routes


['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',50],['2 Stars',39],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',9],['5.8',9],['5.9',11],['5.10',43],['5.11',10],['5.12',8],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',3],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bow Valley:
Grotto Falls   WI3     Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   Grotto Canyon
Grillmair's Chimneys   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 1000'   Mt Yamnuska : Kahl Wall
Keel Haul Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   Kid Goat Buttress
NE Buttress   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 11 pitches, 1500'   Chinaman's Peak aka Ha Ling...
Red Shirt Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 8 pitches, 800'   Mt Yamnuska : Red Shirt
Grey Waves   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Sport, 5 pitches, 500'   Kid Goat Buttress
Direttissima   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 9 pitches, 1100'   Mt Yamnuska : CMC Wall
Rocky Road   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Grassi Lakes : Gardener's Wall
Kahl Wall   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 9 pitches, 850'   Mt Yamnuska : Kahl Wall
Meathooks   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Grassi Lakes : Meathooks Area
Browse More Classics in Bow Valley

Featured Route For Bow Valley
Looking up pitch 3. watch the rope drag on this pitch, as the route traverses to the right then heads straight up through the roof.  I would either not place a draw on right bolt(the one on the bottom), as there is another one a 2 meters a above it, or use long draws on both of the bolts that start and finish the traverse.

Grey Waves 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13  North America : Canada : ... : Kid Goat Buttress
This beautiful route is a classic 5.8 sport route. Cool moves, excellent rock, and great exposure define this route. Pitch 1 (5.8 - 50m) - Climb up an arrete then out onto the face. Pass at possibly belay at 20m. Cross three overhangs to the belay station (shared with Keel Haul Wall), the second overhang is the toughest. Pitch 2 (5.8 - 25m) - ignore the bolt on the overhang to the right; this belongs to KHW; instead move stright up from the belay past two fixed pins and a pos...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Bow Valley Slideshow Add Photo
That's a nice rock.  EEOR.  Thanks Ron Keller for your help.
That's a nice rock. EEOR. Thanks Ron Keller for ...
From Chinaman's.  That's a nice rock.  EEOR.  Thanks Ron Keller for your help.
From Chinaman's. That's a nice rock. EEOR. Than...
True Grit on EEOR <br /><ul style='margin:0 0; padding:0 0;'><li>A. Larose climbing</li></ul>
True Grit on EEOR
  • A. Larose climbing
Comments on Bow Valley Add Comment
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By ihategrigris
From: Vancouver, BC
Mar 19, 2007

The Rock season in portions of the Bow Valley, especially on south facing cliffs such as Yamnuska is more like March to October.