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Routes in Mt. Bourgeau
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Bourgeau Left-Hand WI5 |
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Bourgeau Right-Hand T WI4 |
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Early Worm, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flirting with the Bosch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Walk of Ages S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Tim Auger, Brian Greenwood, George Homer, Rob Wood. 1974 |
| Page Views: | 3,028 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Rone on Nov 27, 2013 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose |
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Description
Bourgeau Right-Hand is an ephemeral line that it is rarely in really good shape from bottom to top. A lot of this has to do with the fact that it gets direct sun all winter long, and conditions can deteriorate rapidly. One must also consider the extreme avalanche hazard from above. Be absolutely sure of conditions, or go somewhere else. When it is in shape get on it!
P1, 30m. Climb steep, often thin ice to a bolted station on the right, possibly ice covered.
P2, 35m. Climb a steep pillar(crux) and then easy ice to a bolted station in an alcove on the right.
P3, 30m. Climb a series of ice steps to another station on the right.
P4, 35m. More ice and snow to a station on the left.
P5, 75m. A long pitch of grade 3-4 ice, then a 20m traverse to an anchor in some small trees. Simul climbing may be necessary.
P6, 45m. After plowing up and across the steep snow slope, establish a belay at the base of the final ice. Climb 75 degree ice to a station on the left. This pitch cannot be seen until you top out on p5.
P1, 30m. Climb steep, often thin ice to a bolted station on the right, possibly ice covered.
P2, 35m. Climb a steep pillar(crux) and then easy ice to a bolted station in an alcove on the right.
P3, 30m. Climb a series of ice steps to another station on the right.
P4, 35m. More ice and snow to a station on the left.
P5, 75m. A long pitch of grade 3-4 ice, then a 20m traverse to an anchor in some small trees. Simul climbing may be necessary.
P6, 45m. After plowing up and across the steep snow slope, establish a belay at the base of the final ice. Climb 75 degree ice to a station on the left. This pitch cannot be seen until you top out on p5.
Location
Drive to the Sunshine ski area parking lot, the route is clearly visible, up to the right.
Hike up through trees, and up the right side of the drainage. At some point, it will be necessary to cross the drainage, go up always, and then come back to the right side. Scramble up some rock steeps then cross again, and work your way up. For the last 100m of the approach, it's usually best to go up the left side of the bowl, then back right and up. Several options exist, scope 'em out.
Descent: The rap from P6, takes you to the snow slope, then scramble down to the trees. Three more rappels gets you to the base of P1, bypassing the anchors at the top of P2 and 4. One more rap gets you closer to your packs, but you still have some down climbing. Another set of anchors in this area would be great!
Hike up through trees, and up the right side of the drainage. At some point, it will be necessary to cross the drainage, go up always, and then come back to the right side. Scramble up some rock steeps then cross again, and work your way up. For the last 100m of the approach, it's usually best to go up the left side of the bowl, then back right and up. Several options exist, scope 'em out.
Descent: The rap from P6, takes you to the snow slope, then scramble down to the trees. Three more rappels gets you to the base of P1, bypassing the anchors at the top of P2 and 4. One more rap gets you closer to your packs, but you still have some down climbing. Another set of anchors in this area would be great!
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