|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Craig Childre on Nov 21, 2006|
|Comments on Bourbon Street||Add Comment|
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By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jan 31, 2007
|Crux is getting off the ledge. the move straight up from the anchor is very boulder problem-ish. I've seen many people get stuck on it. One move and your on the street though.|
By C. Archibald
Nov 20, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
The start of this route is certainly not 5.8 anymore. From what I've been told, the soil on the ledge has eroded, making it much more difficult to reach the jugs. I started the route about 5 - 10 feet right of the anchors, and then had to make a scary unprotected traverse into the first bolt risking a big factor 2 onto the anchor. The party in front of us (with climbers that normally onsight 5.10 trad climbs) had to put a sling on the anchor and step in it just to get off the ground.
I'm fine calling it 5.8 just to look tough and respect history, but in all honesty, the start is 5.10 R.
Oh yeah ... Pitch 2 has one gear placement and no bolts. The climbing is easier, but it's still R rated.