Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Snakes Head / S Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baptism T 
Big Bite S 
Bourbon Street T 
Desire T 
Geek Feet T 
L.S.A.T S 
Left Leaning Dihedral T 
Moose Bite TR 
Moose Head T 
Pizza Face T 
S-Wall S 
Snakes Head T 
Snakes Head Dihedral T 
Today is a Good Day to Die T 

Bourbon Street 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,089
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Nov 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


The first bolted route at Quartz. You might rope up for the climb to the ledge being 5.6/7. Start at the two-bolt belay and then work up past a couple of bolts and into a stance below a crack. Then climb up past the chimney and to another bolt to easy climbing above.


Start from the grassy ledge 20 feet off the deck on the right side of the wall.


Long slings for the bolts, the crack will take some small stuff if you really want it. Stuff a big 3-4's cam in the belay stance in the dish. Standard rack will suffice for the rest.

Comments on Bourbon Street Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jan 31, 2007

Crux is getting off the ledge. the move straight up from the anchor is very boulder problem-ish. I've seen many people get stuck on it. One move and your on the street though.
By C. Archibald
Nov 20, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

The start of this route is certainly not 5.8 anymore. From what I've been told, the soil on the ledge has eroded, making it much more difficult to reach the jugs. I started the route about 5 - 10 feet right of the anchors, and then had to make a scary unprotected traverse into the first bolt risking a big factor 2 onto the anchor. The party in front of us (with climbers that normally onsight 5.10 trad climbs) had to put a sling on the anchor and step in it just to get off the ground.

I'm fine calling it 5.8 just to look tough and respect history, but in all honesty, the start is 5.10 R.

Oh yeah ... Pitch 2 has one gear placement and no bolts. The climbing is easier, but it's still R rated.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!