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Bourbon Hangover 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brian Bock, Chris Spencer, 9-18-10
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,840
Submitted By: Brian Bock on Sep 21, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: The broken red line is the first 2 pitches of Bour...

Description 

This line follows the first 2 pitches of Bourbon Street giving it the 5.8+ rating, then links in with a small continuous crack system to the summit blocks for the last 4 pitches.

At the top of the 2nd pitch, set up belay to the right of the bushes to gain access to the last 4 pitches.

P3: A bouldery start straight up a couple of blocks will lead to a right trending crack. Follow this and set up belay on a decent ledge.

P4: The goal is to gain a crack at the far right side of the prominent face which borders the large gully droping off to the right. A semi overhanging section followed with a short traverse to the right will gain access to the crack on the knife-blade edge. Follow this exposed face up to ledges and set up shop.

P5: Traverse to the right from the belay towards the large gully on the right, and gain access to the small finger crack. You cannot see the start of the crack till you traverse a bit around the corner. Follow this crack up staying right till the crack veers a bit left through a couple of exposed bulge like sections. End at nice ledges before the last face section.

P6: The crack now takes a left trending path which has nice exposure. Follow this crack directly up the last main face to the Summit Blocks!!!

You should not encounter anything harder than 5.7 on the last 4 pitches. There is good exposure and comfy belays for the entire climb. I welcome any input on grades or beta.


Protection 

Pro to 4"



Photos of Bourbon Hangover Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 6
Pitch 6
Pitch 4
Pitch 4
Belay at Pitch 5.
Belay at Pitch 5.
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By Tricamus
From: Culver City, CA
Jan 27, 2014

I either was adjacent to the route the whole time (upper pitches 3-6) or found it to be a bit more brittle and crumbly than expected. Belays are pretty comfy the entire route. No crowds on this one, as most people are out there for Frogland, but we still enjoyed the same summit and sense of accomplishment. Not a bad day out, but I wouldn't repeat this route.

On a side note, we took the crack to the right of Bourbon Street's P2, and it was also very brittle but an adventurous crack. Rain Dance on P1 was the highlight of our link up.