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Cocaine Gully
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Bound in Bogata 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tom Egan, December 1990
Page Views: 497
Submitted By: David Tvedt on Apr 17, 2006
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Description 

This is a short one-move wonder route with a sharp, crimp sequence for the "wonder" part. Mantle onto a ledge and then tackle the tweaky crux above the second bolt. After this, it's easy to the anchors. Rated 11a in the 1992 Watt's guide, the single hard sequence perhaps lost a hold and increased the grade. Anyone who I have talked with who has also climbed it (4 other climbers) has thought it harder than 11a and also an "unpleasant" route to avoid.


Location 

Upper right (North) side of Cocaine Gully, just before the last two (newer-not in the Watt's guide) routes, Armageddon and Deep Impact.


Protection 

Bolts(aprox 4). Bolt anchors.



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By Vernon Stiefel
Apr 17, 2006
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I don't understand why this received a bomb for quality. Even though only one distinct crux exists, I thought the climbing and rock quality was good.

By David Tvedt
Apr 17, 2006

I would agree that the rock quality is fine on this route. Myself and 3 other climbers have had "disgust" responses to climbing it. Different climbers like different things and I don't think it really deserves a true "bomb" but to me it doesn't deserve an Average, OK, either. For me it was a combination of it being a short route with forgettable moves except for the memorably negative crux sequence which is WAY harder than anything else on the route. If I were to rate it based on the Watt's 1992 guide criteria, I'd give it one star (below average) but not No Stars, Terrible, and a bomb. This route is no where near the bottom dregs of routes that could be considered the true bombs. The ratings on Mountain Project don't allow me to give it a below average rating.