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Bottle Top - Bouncing Betty Route
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 6
votes
Routes in Gold Star Canyon
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Bottle Top - Bouncing Betty Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bottle Top: North Face Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 |
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Cirqus Voltaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Factotum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ride the Lightning T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+ |
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Ship of Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 |
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Skin Industries T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Uncle Sam S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Unknown/?CCC? Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), Grade II |
| FA: | James Stover, Ryan Dutch |
| Page Views: | 2,051 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Airbiscuit on Sep 22, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a nice, moderate, afternoon outing on the Bottle Top Tower, pretty cruiser and solid. It is definitely gumby-friendly, (taken with a grain of salt - of course - as all Monument routes should be).
Getting to the base is probably the crux. Mountaineer up the slabs from the Southeast wandering through a line that you have eyeballed up from the bench, thread you way up to the notch between the tower and the land form. You are now at the base of a sweet, unseen hand crack that takes you to the top.
P1: Climb the hand crack right of the chossy chimney for a hundred feet or so. Taking care not to knock one of the huge blocks down as you navigate the overhanging capstone chimney, which is how this route got its name (5.9).
Sweet summit.
Rap from good anchors.
4 Comments