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Bounce testing in soft rock?
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Nov 19, 2009
1/3 of the way up Spire, just above where my piece...
So I get the idea of bounce testing but am wondering if it's a good idea on really soft sandstone. It seems to me you could blow out a placement by being too aggressive. Additionally a C1 placement in granite is going to hold assuming one is competent to place gear, but should a C1 placement in sandstone be tested? Same for C2, C3 etc. Tombo
From Boulder
Joined Feb 9, 2006
242 points
Nov 19, 2009
Wide abgle!
I've never aid climbed before but I cant emagine that being a very good idea considering holds break on soft sandstone all the time. Andrew James C
From Portland, OR
Joined Sep 15, 2009
549 points
Nov 19, 2009
Desert Tortoise
Bounce testing is always a good idea. That's how hard aid pitches can be made easy. The last thing you want to do is be out multiple placements on a relatively easy aid pitch, or desperate one, (soft rock or not) and zipper a bunch of stuff that you didn't test. I have personally done 100's of aid pitches in desert sandstone of all qualities and only rarely have not bounce tested a piece. It's just prudent, and almost never will "ruin" a placement for future use. Stu Ritchie
From Denver
Joined Dec 4, 2007
1,767 points
Nov 19, 2009
Belaying at Ouray
I totally agree with Stu. Bounce testing gives you confidence in your placements as you move up a pitch of sketchy placements. I found this especially true on aid pitches in the Fisher Towers. climber73
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Mar 26, 2007
248 points
Nov 20, 2009
Andrew Gram
I bounce test on hard pitches in soft sandstone, but I never do on easy trade routes to keep the wear down. Andrew Gram
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Jan 1, 2001
3,581 points
Site Landlord
Nov 20, 2009
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me?...
mmmmmm, bounce testing the Fishers.....

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Andy Laakmann
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 1, 2001
2,412 points

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