So I get the idea of bounce testing but am wondering if it's a good idea on really soft sandstone. It seems to me you could blow out a placement by being too aggressive. Additionally a C1 placement in granite is going to hold assuming one is competent to place gear, but should a C1 placement in sandstone be tested? Same for C2, C3 etc.

I've never aid climbed before but I cant emagine that being a very good idea considering holds break on soft sandstone all the time.

Bounce testing is always a good idea. That's how hard aid pitches can be made easy. The last thing you want to do is be out multiple placements on a relatively easy aid pitch, or desperate one, (soft rock or not) and zipper a bunch of stuff that you didn't test. I have personally done 100's of aid pitches in desert sandstone of all qualities and only rarely have not bounce tested a piece. It's just prudent, and almost never will "ruin" a placement for future use.

I totally agree with Stu. Bounce testing gives you confidence in your placements as you move up a pitch of sketchy placements. I found this especially true on aid pitches in the Fisher Towers.

I bounce test on hard pitches in soft sandstone, but I never do on easy trade routes to keep the wear down.

mmmmmm, bounce testing the Fishers.....

Mystery protection on Phantom Sprint. Anyone know what's behind the mud curtain? Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Nov 11, 2008