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Bounce testing in soft rock?
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By Tombo
From Boulder
Nov 19, 2009
1/3 of the way up Spire, just above where my piece blew.
So I get the idea of bounce testing but am wondering if it's a good idea on really soft sandstone. It seems to me you could blow out a placement by being too aggressive. Additionally a C1 placement in granite is going to hold assuming one is competent to place gear, but should a C1 placement in sandstone be tested? Same for C2, C3 etc.

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By Andrew James C
From Portland, OR
Nov 19, 2009
Wide abgle!
I've never aid climbed before but I cant emagine that being a very good idea considering holds break on soft sandstone all the time.

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By Stu Ritchie
From Denver
Nov 19, 2009
Desert Tortoise
Bounce testing is always a good idea. That's how hard aid pitches can be made easy. The last thing you want to do is be out multiple placements on a relatively easy aid pitch, or desperate one, (soft rock or not) and zipper a bunch of stuff that you didn't test. I have personally done 100's of aid pitches in desert sandstone of all qualities and only rarely have not bounce tested a piece. It's just prudent, and almost never will "ruin" a placement for future use.

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By climber73
From Fort Collins, CO
Nov 19, 2009
Belaying at Ouray
I totally agree with Stu. Bounce testing gives you confidence in your placements as you move up a pitch of sketchy placements. I found this especially true on aid pitches in the Fisher Towers.

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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 20, 2009
Andrew Gram
I bounce test on hard pitches in soft sandstone, but I never do on easy trade routes to keep the wear down.

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Nov 20, 2009
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress
mmmmmm, bounce testing the Fishers.....

Mystery protection on Phantom Sprint. <br /> <br />Anyone know what's behind the mud curtain?
Mystery protection on Phantom Sprint.

Anyone know what's behind the mud curtain?

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