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Bouldering problems

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Berthoud/Buddha area 
Buoux Block area 
Central City area 
Corridor area 
Creekside Boulders 
Falls Area 
Five and Dime Area 
Fountainbleau area 
Inner Canyon area 
Miscellaneous Castlewood Boulder problems 
Punani Area/North Canyon 

Bouldering problems  


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Elevation: 5,400'
Location: 39.31677, -104.73933 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 92,266
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Location of major Bouldering Areas throughout Cast...

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Description 

Bouldering at the Wood is great. There are TONS of possibilities, and it is a year-round area. In the summer, shady places like the Fountainebleau Boulder let you hit the slopers, while in the winter, great rocks such as the Phallic Boulder are creek-side and south-facing. There is quite a collection just West of the ranger station at the North park entrance. Wintertime bouldering can be found near areas such as the Playground, Falls Wall, or any South-facing areas (which are numerous).

Castlewood is a capital L-shaped canyon. Punani is up at the top of the L at the North part, down by the creek. The Berthoud Cave is up in the Inner Canyon, which is the horizontal part of the L and way South. To find Punani and this problem, you have to enter the North Entrance to the park, and park at the Lucas Homestead lot/trail and then follow that trail down to the bridge, and then follow the directions listed here.

Eds. this area has undergone a recent reorganization to make it more user friendly. A good starting point is the area map provided by Andy Librande.

Getting There 

Just explore the park. Also see the new book "Colorado Bouldering" by Phillip Benningfield. It lists good beta for some of the rocks here. Also Hanson's guidebook lists some good bouldering spots but no specific problem info.

Map of some of the boulders 

Here is a map to some of the boulders, courtesy of Andy Librande.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.3 miles from here

86 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',44],['1 Star',17],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',9],['V2-3',38],['V4-5',20],['V6-7',11],['V8-9',5],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bouldering problems:
Rocket Ship   V1+ 5     Boulder   Fountainbleau area : Fountain Lip Boulder
Up Staged   V2 5+     Boulder   Fountainbleau area : Fountainebleau Boulder
Butt Crystal   V3 6A     Boulder   Berthoud/Buddha area : Buddha Cave area
Fountain Lip Traverse   V3 6A     Boulder, 20'   Fountainbleau area : Fountain Lip Boulder
Rounded Prow   V3 6A     Boulder   Berthoud/Buddha area : Buddha Cave area
Gerbil in a Chute   V3-4 6A+     Boulder   Punani Area/North Canyon : Punani Boulder
Distance Overhang   V3-4 6A+     Boulder   Fountainbleau area : Distance Boulder
Phillip's Problem   V5 6C     Boulder   Berthoud/Buddha area : Buddha Cave area
Nine Lives Arete   V5 6C     Boulder   Central City area : Nine Lives Boulder
Cave Direct   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Fountainbleau area : Fountain Lip Boulder
Distance Overhang Sit Start   V6-7 7A+     Boulder   Fountainbleau area : Distance Boulder
Tiger Woods   V7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   Inner Canyon area : Tim's Boulder aka Powerline...
Punani   V7-8 7B     Boulder, 20'   Punani Area/North Canyon : Punani Boulder
Little Devil   V11 8A X     TR, Boulder   Miscellaneous Castlewood Bo...
Browse More Classics in Bouldering problems

Featured Route For Bouldering problems
Mike B moving through the parallel seams.

Fountain Lip Traverse V3 6A  CO : Denver South : ... : Fountain Lip Boulder
This beautiful arete is an outstanding problem with interesting movement, nice aestethics, and just the right amount of puckerup factor. On top of all this, the landing is flat and easy to protect.Begin in the pod on the far left side of the boulder. Traverse right surfing through parallel seams housing a variety of veiled crimps and finger slots. Exit on an obvious system of crimps and pockets before your body is over the slab on the adjacent boulder. The lower you stay on the parallel seams, t...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Bouldering problems Slideshow Add Photo
Ben on Rocketship in the Font Area. 11/17/08.
Ben on Rocketship in the Font Area. 11/17/08.
Location of major Bouldering Areas throughout Castlewood Canyon. This covers the major areas that have been developed and documented.  <br /> <br />Please let me know if anything is incorrect or needs updating.  <br /> <br />As of July, 2010.
BETA PHOTO: Location of major Bouldering Areas throughout Cast...
Chris in Buddha Cave.
Chris in Buddha Cave.
Jerad Friedrichs in the Berthoud Cave.
Jerad Friedrichs in the Berthoud Cave.
Boulder here...Get very strong!
Boulder here...Get very strong!
Brian Birks in the Berthoud Cave.
Brian Birks in the Berthoud Cave.
Berthoud Cave on a beautiful November day.
Berthoud Cave on a beautiful November day.
Chris bouldering at the Buddha Cave.
Chris bouldering at the Buddha Cave.
A problem right by the Cave Direct, not sure what it is.
A problem right by the Cave Direct, not sure what ...
Kevin on a fun problem in the Buddha Cave.
Kevin on a fun problem in the Buddha Cave.
The start holds for the L Green and  Red problems.
The start holds for the L Green and Red problems.

Comments on Bouldering problems Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 18, 2013
By Joe
Feb 8, 2005
Once you walk up near the grocery store wall, head right. You should come across a good set of problems for anywhere from beginner to moderate to semi advanced. It's the most fun in the canyon I have found so far, better for summer or warmer weather, because it's in the shade.
By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Apr 11, 2007
Does anyone know what the traverse is called over by Gorilla's Milk on the Grocery Store Wall? It's actually a really fun traverse with some great heel hooks. I think it goes at V1.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 4, 2009
Hey, my friend dropped my chalk bucket while bush-whacking up near the Buddha Cave-Titanic Block area. If you find it, there's a reward in there somewhere for you....
By Jon Roberts
Dec 19, 2009
Can someone please tell me where the Tiger Woods problem is? Or maybe submit an entry on MP?
By Andy Librande
From: Denver, CO
Dec 28, 2009
Tiger Woods is in the East entrance in the inner canyon. Take the trail into the canyon until you see the powerlines going over the trail. Head to your right up the hill around there (should have a faint trail). Just below the cliff line. Line is the left one heading out of the cave. Details in Colorado Bouldering 2.
By Jon Roberts
Mar 13, 2010
Andy, you rock! I've never climbed from the east entrance, so I'll check it out first chance I get. Thanks.
By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Mar 14, 2010
Tiger Woods sure sounds a lot like the Shred of Dignity. But that's the thing about little-used boulder problems, they can be re-discovered and re-named every 10 years or so.
By Tom Hanson
Mar 15, 2010
Tiger Woods and Shred of Dignity are two separate problems.
Tiger resides on the south side of the block below the power line, while Shred is a bit east, nearer and below The Playground.
By Austin Jurgensmeyer
Jan 30, 2012
Has anyone been up to Tiger Woods recently, where are you supposed to start, has the start broken?

I'm looking at this picture of Austin Geiman's:

8a.nu/gallery/Main.aspx?UserId...

and he obviously started on some hold on the right side. On 8a, someone commented that the start hold broke on 2005-02-20.

I sent a line that started matched on the low hueco (near Austin's left knee) and threw right hand to the sloper. Toe hook/bicycle the starting hueco and hit a left hand crimp just above the sloper and the huck for the jug. Felt approx. V8-9 to me, but I'm starting to think this is not the intended start for Tiger Woods.

Thanks in advance,

Austin
By evan h
From: Denver, CO
Dec 15, 2013
Maybe this has been addressed elsewhere, but I think it would be a great service to the community if one of the locals here would do some organizing to the bouldering database. To someone who has never visited (me two days ago) trying to find a place to set up camp (and know what you're climbing) was rather difficult using Mountain Project alone. For instance, even the Font Boulders could use a few subdivisions. Just a thought.
By Andy Librande
From: Denver, CO
Dec 16, 2013
Suggestion for organization:

Top level:

West Entrance (Back Entrance)
East Entrance (Visitor Center Entrance)

West Entrance would be organized something like this:
- Five and Dime Boulders
- FountaineBleau Area
- Punani Area (better name?)
- Central City
- Buoux Block Area

East Entrance would be organized something like this:
- Inner-Canyon
- Corridor Area
- Berthoud/Buddha Area
- Creekside Area

Or not have East/West Entrances and have all of the same areas as listed above (plus others as needed).

Thoughts!?!
By evan h
From: Denver, CO
Dec 18, 2013
Andy, that looks reasonable to me, especially given the two entrance scenario. Again, I'm not at all familiar with the park, but any scheme that directs a new visitor from large scale sectors down to a smaller selection of boulders, down to individual problems is a good one.