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Bouldering Cave

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Baseball Problem, The 
Blockade 
Football Problem 
Jew Claw, The 
Low low start (aka Desperation) 
Murray Pinch 
Pegboard 
Reachy sidepulls? 
V8 

Bouldering Cave 


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Page Views: 4,829
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: LeeAB on Oct 10, 2007
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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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BETA PHOTO: This is the main wall at Block Big. Clearly seen a...
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Description 

Generally shady. This "rock" is well traveled but it's weepy limestone and forms a cave that is quite subject to freeze-thaw that results in sometimes annual changes in routes. Nevertheless, it's still good climbing.

The main cave hosts a good selection of problems in the V4 to V9 range with many eliminates, variations and link-ups. There is also the Murry Pinch V11 is a problem that involves a terrible pinch at the lip then tinny crimps and is between the Football Problem and the Reachy Sidepull problem.

To the left of the roof are several easier problem V2 to about V4 and as you continue left there are more problems but the rock has not recived as much "LOVE" and is thus a bit less reliable.

If you can get over the huge amount of epoxy that has been poured into this area (very little would be climbable here without it) it provides a good change of pace from the typical slabby, sharp granite to be had near town. As well as a shady venue that is at least bearable durring the summer, though if you want to do stuff that is hard for you, better to wait till temps are in the 60's or lower as the rock is pretty polished.


Getting There 

From the parking area, hike south and down into the creek bed, cross the moat, and find some entertaining bouldering.


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bouldering Cave:
Football Problem   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   
Pegboard   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   
V8   V8 7B     Boulder, 12'   
Reachy sidepulls?   V9 7C     Boulder, 15'   
Murray Pinch   V10-11 8A     Boulder, 15'   
Blockade   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, TR, 30'   
Browse More Classics in Bouldering Cave

Featured Route For Bouldering Cave
Richard on the jug looking for the small sidepull just over the lip but oh so far away.

V8 V8 7B  NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : ... : Bouldering Cave
Start where the main horizontal under the roof juts out into the roof a couple of feet and move to a triangular shaped sidepull jug in the middle of the roof. A big move out to the lip gains a two finger sidepull, from here you can go either right or left, right maybe easier for tall folks and left easier for short.For the right version, work right on small sloping edges to a rounded match hold. Let your feet out and make a big move up to a flat spot on a high sloper. Easier climbing to the top ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Bouldering Cave Slideshow Add Photo
Me, working a low ball.
Me, working a low ball.
 V8,side pull 1995
V8,side pull 1995
Working the lower part of main wall at Big Block. (looking west)
Working the lower part of main wall at Big Block. ...
Working the high traverse of main wall at Big Block. (looking west) The low ball is below me.
Working the high traverse of main wall at Big Bloc...
Working the lower part of main wall at Big Block. (looking east)
Working the lower part of main wall at Big Block. ...
 v7 variation
v7 variation
Comments on Bouldering Cave Add Comment
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By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 2, 2009

I agree with Leeab's comments for sure. It's not the greatest crag but it's right there outside of town and often cooler than the lower Sandias. Combined with leading the two mellow 5.10's it makes for a quick outdoor climbing fix.