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Boulder Slips

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boulder Slips T,TR 
Brand New Bosch S 
Colorado Senior Open T,S 
Edges and Ledges S 
Family Guy T,S 
La Lune S 
Minutia T 
Minutia Arete TR 
My Way T,S 
Party Time! T,S 
Pumpkin Corner T 
Ride, The T,S 
Same As It Ever Was T,S 
Sunlight Arete S 
Threshold Variation T,TR 
Threshold, The T 
Throttle, The T,TR 
Useless One T,TR 
Where's Bob? T,S 

Boulder Slips 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,950'
Location: 40.0046, -105.4065 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 24,944
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 17, 2006
Forecast:
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Bob Horan leading La Lune on natural gear.
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  • Description 

    Boulder Slips is an obscure crag just west of the trail to Boulder Falls. It is right next to the road and has very easy access, but, until recently, I've never seen anyone climbing here. The first route on the crag was Boulder Slips, climbed by Pat Ament and Larry Dalke in 1964.

    There are seven routes documented in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook, mostly old trad routes established in the 80s. None of these was popular, due to sections of poor pro and lack of anchors.

    In the fall of 2006, 10 new moderate sport and mixed routes were established, all with good protection and bolt anchors. In the summer of 2007, four more sport and mixed routes were added by Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand. Boulder Slips is now a worthwhile destination for a fun day of climbing.

    L->R:

    On the left side of the crag:

    A1. Edges and Ledges, 8-, 1p, 80', bolts. Steep face.
    A2. Brand New Bosch, 9-, 1p, 85', bolts. Corner to overlap.
    A3. Party Time!, 9, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. Corner, arete, finger crack, hand/fist crack.
    A4. Minutia, 8, 1p, 100', gear. Hand crack.
    A5. Minutia Arete, 9+, 1p, 100', TR.
    A6. Pumpkin Corner, 9-, 1p, 80', gear.
    B. La Lune, 13-, 1p, 45', bolts & gear. Overhanging thin crack.
    C. Sunlight Arete, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
    D. Useless One, 10, 1p, 50', gear.

    In the center of the crag:

    E. Colorado Senior Open, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
    F. Family Guy, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
    G. Same As It Ever Was, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
    H. Giggity Giggity, 10, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
    I. Quagmire, 9+ R, 1p, gear.
    J. The Throttle, 11 R, 1p, 95', gear or TR.

    On the right side of the crag:

    K1. The Threshold, 11-, 1p, 100', gear.
    K2. Threshold Variation, 9+ R, 1p, 85', gear or TR.
    L1. My Way, 10-, 1p, 80', bolts & gear. Arete, cracks, face.
    L2. Boulder Slips, 9 R, 1p, 80', gear or TR. Corner, roof, slab.
    M. Where's Bob?, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear. Face to overhang.
    N. The Ride, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts & gear. Face and cracks.

    On the left side of the crag, at the top of a path, are seven routes: Edges and Ledges, a fun 5.8 sport route up a steep face; Brand New Bosch, a 5.9 sport route up a corner; Party Time!, a 5.9 corner, arete, and cracks; Minutia, a fabulous 5.8 hand crack; Minutia Arete, an arete that can be top-roped. Pumpkin Corner is the big corner right of Minutia Arete, and Sunlight Arete, is a striking arete on the upper tier.

    Older routes in this area include La Lune, an overhanging 12d/13a sport route on a striped wall, and Useless One, which climbs thin cracks in a vertical wall about 60' right of La Lune.

    Quagmire and The Throttle climb up the poorly-protected face in the center of the crag.

    There are six routes on the right side of the crag: The Threshold climbs discontinuous cracks just left of My Way. Threshold Variation avoids the hard 5.11 section of The Threshold. My Way climbs a striking arete. Boulder Slips climbs the big right-facing corner just right of My Way. Where's Bob? climbs the face and overhang 25' right of Boulder Slips. The Ride climbs face and cracks 30' right of Where's Bob?.


    Getting There 

    Go to Boulder Falls 7.5 miles up Boulder Canyon. There is a gravel pullout on the right just past the trail to the falls. Park just beyond the RTD bus stop which is at the beginning of the pullout, or a little farther up the road.

    The routes on the left side of the crag are accessed by a path heading up the hill. Follow the path up about 100' above the road to the base of a broken slab (5 minutes). This path is mostly steep loose dirt and is littered with loose rocks -- be careful. In poison-ivy season (May through October), it is covered with the stuff.

    The routes on the right side side of the crag are accessed by walking up to a wooded shoulder just above the road (about a minute).

    See the Route Overview beta photo for details.


    19 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',7],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Boulder Slips:
    Minutia   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Edges and Ledges   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    My Way   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Boulder Slips   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Colorado Senior Open   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Sunlight Arete   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Family Guy   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Same As It Ever Was   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 70'   
    Browse More Classics in Boulder Slips

    Featured Route For Boulder Slips
    Routes on the left side of Boulder Slips.

    Edges and Ledges 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CO : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips
    Edges and Ledges is a fun new sport route on the left side of Boulder Slips. It climbs a steep face about 30' left of Minutia. It's well-bolted, and a great lead for someone breaking into 5.8 sport.Start at the same place as for Minutia, at the base of a slab on the left side of Boulder Slips, about 100' above the road.Climb an easy slab up to the steep face. Stay away from the gully on the left, which has some loose rock. Clip the first bolt, and work up the face, with many good edges...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Local Information for Boulder Slips
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    Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
    Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   4
    Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
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    Photos of Boulder Slips Slideshow Add Photo
    Mike "The Driller" Borkowski having some fun.
    Mike "The Driller" Borkowski having some fun.
    Looking up at Edges and Ledges (5.8 left side) and Brand New Bosch (5.9 right side).  Both very fun routes.
    BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Edges and Ledges (5.8 left side) and...
    Cruising up Edges and Ledges.
    Cruising up Edges and Ledges.
    La Lune, 12d/13a.  First ascent by Bob Horan in 1988 with fixed stoppers; retrobolted in the 90s.
    BETA PHOTO: La Lune, 12d/13a. First ascent by Bob Horan in 19...
    Boulder Slips Route Overview <br /> <br />1. Edges and Ledges, 8, 8 bolts <br />2. Brand New Bosch, 9, 6 bolts <br />3. Party Time!, 9, 5 bolts & gear to 3.5" <br />4. Minutia, 8, gear to 3" <br />5. Minutia Arete, 9+, TR <br />6. Pumpkin Corner, 9, gear to 2" <br />7. La Lune, 12d, 5 bolts <br />8. Sunlight Arete, 10b, 5 bolts <br />9. The Throttle, 11 R, TR <br />10. Threshold Variation, 9+ R, TR <br />11. My Way, 9, 4 bolts & gear to 2" <br />12. Boulder Slips, 9 R, gear to 2" <br />13. Where's Bob?, 10, 5 bolts & 2 green Camalots <br />14. The Ride, 10b, 5 bolts & gear to 2"
    BETA PHOTO: Boulder Slips Route Overview

    1. Edges and Ledges,...
    New climbs at Boulder Slips area.
    BETA PHOTO: New climbs at Boulder Slips area.
    Party Time!
    Party Time!
    The approach slab to Brand New Bosch, Party Time, Minutiae, etc.
    The approach slab to Brand New Bosch, Party Time, ...
    Comments on Boulder Slips Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 13, 2006

    Almost hesitant to promote this crag right now as I want it to myself for a while! Easy approach, a sunny south-facing disposition and some quite good (to very good) moderate climbing will make this place a popular destination. Edges and Ledges is certainly one of the best 5.8 sport climbs around and Minutia makes a great 5.8 trad lead. The climbs are close together, making it great for a "social" venue of climbing. I am told that the anchors for most of the routes on the left side can be reached after leading Edges and Ledges if one wishes to set up top ropes that way. One caveat is to be a bit aware of some loose rock potential as this area has not been climbed much yet. Wear your helmet!

    By Mike Jay
    Mar 12, 2007

    I agree with Gary! I almost want to keep this one secret! When Practice Rock is full, and you can't get a lane at the Bowling Alley...head over to Boulder Slips! Some great bolted routes and I bet you could find many new trad lines. Nice! Great on the Sunday with the perfect weather and long lines... No one here.

    By Jason Haas
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Nov 13, 2008

    • **IMPORTANT ACCESS ISSUE***

    Boulder Slips is on OSMP land, which means no bolting.

    By Chris Archer
    Nov 13, 2008

    Thanks for the update, Jason. Just to be certain, how do you know that OSMP owns these crags? Can you post a link to any public records that would establish this? As you know the ownership of land in the Boulder Falls area is often difficult to determine, so it would be good to double check this information.

    By Jason Haas
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Nov 13, 2008

    Chris, I don't have an actual link but I do have a map given to me by the city with all the boundaries, including the county, city, USFS, and private that was taken from the county assessor. I'll try and post the pic tonight. As you know from the emails you've been getting from the Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC), we've been working really hard with the city to work out trail access. The problem has never really been who owns what land (common misconception), but more like which user groups can access what public land from where. The trail to Plotinus starts on city, goes onto county, then back onto city, and then finishes with USFS. The city has concerns about hikers being behind the falls for safety reasons.

    While we're on it, it should be noted that the Boulder Falls East and West as noted in Rossiter's book is also not open to bolting.

    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Apr 11, 2009

    What is the route directly left of Throttle? It starts with a lieback then a big jug and then some stemming up to an awkward mantle. Maybe 5 bolts?

    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 11, 2009

    Phil, the route left of The Throttle (and next to the old trad route Quagmire) is called Giggity! Giggity!. FA by Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand. It will be documented in Bob D'Antonio's new Boulder Canyon guidebook, due out this summer.

    FYI, Quagmire is a character on the animated TV show Family Guy -- one of his favorite sayings is "Giggity! Giggity!". Greg is responsible for the route name!

    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Apr 11, 2009

    Thanks Ron! It was a fun route.

    By jcntrl
    From: Smoulder, CO
    Oct 19, 2009

    This should always be obvious, but a warning anyway: be careful when pulling your rope from Party Time and/or Minutia. It can easily get stuck on a rock outcrop where the real climbing begins, requiring an exposed-but-easy solo-scramble (then a down scramble) to retrieve it.

    By Matty H
    Jul 27, 2013

    Be delicate when climbing in this area. I found two large blocks that moved when pulled hard on. Neither moved significantly, but better to be safe than sorry. Also just be aware, and if you don't regularly, wear a helmet here all the time if you can, as there are loose rocks all over the trail, and a couple were knocked on to me today.