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Boulder Problems 

WI3

   
Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus: WI3 [details]
FA: Tim Gotwols 1980's
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 359
Submitted By: bradley white on Jan 6, 2013

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The first pitch traverse ledge goes from right to ...

Description 

Begin on runnel with a tree frozen in it. Narrow with fun moves on solid pick holds. Hook tree and exit to next ice flow. Above that move far left on ledge (rock climbing trail) to reconnect to main flow. Move up this to a big belay ledge with trees. There are enough trees for anchors. On the 110 foot first pitch I only used trees. I could have only used screws. The second pitch goes over a bulge and then goes left with the ice becoming less and less until snow is taken to the top for a belay from the trees. Didn't seem like it but the rope was about 90 feet to the trees. I put in a screw and only brought one screw. I could have put in at least two more on easy ice. The route is separated by steep snow a lot with frozen dirt for tool placements sometimes. That's why its called boulder problems.

Location 

Go straight up from the east end of the main cliff small parking lot, a very short distance. This climb is just right uphill from the main widest flow.
Walk off right or east to reach a stream and follow it down far right of it and then go down to the parking lot. Better to rappel if your unfamiliar with the area for descent or walk west towards Kennel Wall Trail.

Protection 

6 to 8 screws, or a few screws and several shoulder slings and one much longer sling is convenient for belaying.


Photos of Boulder Problems Slideshow Add Photo
Marvelous
Marvelous
The start is above the snow.
BETA PHOTO: The start is above the snow.
Start of second pitch.
Start of second pitch.
Joe Adam, belayed, Justin took all the photographs and we missed getting a picture of him.
Joe Adam, belayed, Justin took all the photographs...
Dinner plating.
Dinner plating.
In the beginning
In the beginning
The first pitch finishes up the ice right in the photo. This picture was taken lower and opposite to the climb. The trees before the upper flow is the belay ledge for the second pitch.
The first pitch finishes up the ice right in the p...
Then there was the tree
Then there was the tree
Second belay tree ledge
Second belay tree ledge
And another tree.
And another tree.
The climb finishes at the old pine tree, that is so, fat. The low branch is as big as a large tree.
BETA PHOTO: The climb finishes at the old pine tree, that is s...

Comments on Boulder Problems Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 6, 2013

Judging by the photo this is actually part of The G Spot and not at Orange Crush. Just to the right of the sport route Drip of Fools. This should be moved in the proper area. I will volunteer to write up the area if you would like Bradley...
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jan 7, 2013

I will have to rewrite the description to Orange crush. I put G Spot with it. I'm beginning to think my idea of keeping it simplified to a few areas isn't working. I know the G Spot area except for these lower two routes. I don't have it in mind to refer to rock climbs to get to ice routes unless there related to each other. I will write up the area since I know where the ice is located. Most are short routes like the G Spot routes and connected to the upper wall. Some might not come in enough for screws.
The route description referred to being in the G Spot with the fixed rope and all mentioned. The tie off to the fixed rope was down left of where we started. The guide book puts the fixed rope at Kagels and locks. To the left of us was the fixed rope to go west to the main flow and rock climbing routes.
Thanks for volunteering and I could include one sport route reference to a potential climb. I don't know where Drip of fools is but by guide book it seems down left of where we started.
Really weird this area has not seen ice climbing traffic before. I saw it from the trail down from Kennel Wall. I don't know how to move Boulder Problems to the G Spot area and it will likely have to be done by an administrator. Now I've gone and done it again, Matt. My idiocy to repeat processes has expenditure by others that must get involved to have it reset up. It seems I got away with putting Makamah Road in the Hinterlands? I didn't get away with it this area. So be it.
I've pretty much figured this place out for winter except this bolted climb on the trail to 'Bumpin the Gate' that has a pink ribbon tied below it.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 7, 2013

As long as it all is under "Ice Climbing", it is probably all right. Mental confusion and ice climbing go hand in hand, no? :))) jk

Once you have the correct areas set up properly, if you need any thing moved, just let an admin know, Bradley, and it is no problem.

Relating the ice routes to commonly know rock routes if they are nearby will help clarify locations.
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jan 7, 2013

Since your onto what's happening I need to move boulder problems and all it photos to G Spot area. I don't want to delete everything and start over and it might be too late to do that with comments attached too it. So Mark can you do me a favor, please and move this stuff, thank you, Brad
By Tim Gotwols
Sep 7, 2014

Boulder Problems as a route name? You didn't really think no one had been up there before, did you? Or is it only a route if you take a rope and gear with you? I first "bouldered" those flows in the late 80's, I'm sure I wasn't the first. For the record, I did once use a rope!