Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Boulder Problem Grades in the Gym?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 2 of 2.  <<First   <Prev   1  2
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By Matt McMurray
From Castle Rock, CO
Apr 2, 2009
It's the best choice...
When I used to set at the gym I wouldn't give a new route an initial grade until 3-4 other climbers that I felt were competent (from outdoors) climbed it. Then we would come to a consensus. I've never climbed at the BRC, but I bet if you approached the setters/staff with what you felt were discrepancies in their rating styles they would be open to it (this goes for all setters)... unless they are total tools who throw up numbers on stuff to make themselves feel cooler/stronger. Even if the are tools, you can learn what they think makes a route hard and adjust which routes to climb accordingly. I used to set routes for technique and sequence more than for brute strength, and people knew that if they climbed my routes they would generally have to follow a progression rather than "sharma" the thing... FWIW.

MM

FLAG
By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Apr 2, 2009
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan
Paul Hunnicutt wrote:
Think about it...no scantily clad hotties to distract you.


Speak for yourself.

I think that outside it just seems harder because the holds aren't as easy to see, everything outside seems more REAL, there are a thousand more variables.

FLAG
By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Apr 2, 2009
Half Dome
my post was an attempt at sarcasm. obviously it didn't work.

YDS rated gym routes are always easier than outside IMHO.

FLAG
By Evan S
From Erie, CO
Apr 2, 2009
Me, of course
Matt McMurray wrote:
When I used to set at the gym I wouldn't give a new route an initial grade until 3-4 other climbers that I felt were competent (from outdoors) climbed it. Then we would come to a consensus. I've never climbed at the BRC, but I bet if you approached the setters/staff with what you felt were discrepancies in their rating styles they would be open to it (this goes for all setters) MM


They do rate problems at the BRC by general consensus, that's the problem. People like to feel good about themselves and their accomplishments, only natural, so I think routes get rated a little harder than they really are.

And Coeus, you are absolutely right, ever since I tore a ligament in my finger on a stupidly hard crimp I've been reluctant to focus heavily of that form of climbing.

FLAG
By Andrew Ryder
From Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 2, 2009
Stems, Seeds
Coeus wrote:
I am not a fan of gym climbing, but this is like saying the YDS scale should apply to all kinds of rock except gneiss because it is metamorphic and therefore different.


I'm not saying the YDS and V-scale shouldn't be used in gyms, just saying that it's very difficult to equate a 5.12 on actual rock, with its various subtleties and tricks, to a 5.12 in the gym, where it is a line of tape-marked, perfectly sculpted holds on a flat surface. Any setter who has tried to duplicate sequences from outdoor routes can attest to that fact.

FLAG
By Dave C
From Homeless, CO
Sep 26, 2009
it always depends on the route, in the end all gym routes are contrived to be difficult.

FLAG
By slim
Administrator
Sep 28, 2009
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
i've been forcing myself to boulder more in the gym, and i have to say that the quality of the problems at the BRC has improved quite a bit. i still get puzzled a bit by the grades, as i am super inconsistent at bouldering. i might flash a couple advanced or advanced + in a row and start feeling pretty psyched, and then totally be unable to do an intermediate. at all. no matter how hard i flog it like a bad little pony. usually it seems like a body size issue and i get mutilated on the scrunchy stuff. also, i don't boulder much and climb fairly static and don't feel comfortable with my feel flying off every other move. it will be interesting to see if i improve at this.

FLAG
By Conor Raney
From Pinedale, WY
Oct 22, 2009
Darby Canyon
Personally, indoor bouldering for me is to keep strength. I don't worry about what I'm climbing in the gym, cuz if someone asks you, "What do you boulder?" you don't say, "Well uh, I boulder open problems in the gym, so probably like V6." So I would say to you to totally disregard gym ratings. The point of climbing is to get outside and climb what is out there....not inside. The truth is on the rock...

FLAG
 


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 2 of 2.  <<First   <Prev   1  2