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Wind Tower - SW Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Calypso D irect Start T 
Across The River From Butt Hair T 
Bomb, The T,TR 
Boulder Direct T 
Breezy T 
Calypso T 
Calypso Direct T 
Day 444 T 
Erickson's Wide Crack T 
G.Y. Dihedral, The T 
Governor's Climb, The T 
Hard-Up T 
I Did It My Way T,TR 
Jimmy Cliff T 
Left Out T 
Lemmings T 
My Own Way T,TR 
No, Do it My Way T 
Raisin Bran T 
Rastaman Roof T 
Recon T 
Reggae T 
Roofed Out T 
Salvation T 
Stagger T 
Tagger T 
Tigger T 
Tigger Plus T 
Variety T 
West Overhang T 
Wind Ridge T 
Wind Tower Slab T,TR 

Boulder Direct 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,778
Submitted By: Jeremy Gilbert on May 24, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (84)
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BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


Start at the outside left edge of the big block that leans against the wall to the right of the Calypso start. Belay at the top of the block or continue up an easy fourth class groove to mid-face and belay (we did this using a 60m rope) From mid-face belay, climb up to a slot (5.5 crux) and finish beneath the natural arch. Descend along the rotten ledge to the left or rappel from anchors that lie 20 ft. to south to the mid-face ledge. From here, downclimb easy rock to a tree that you can rap from, finishing to the opposite side of the big block from where you started. Enjoy!!


Standard rack with some long runners.

Photos of Boulder Direct Slideshow Add Photo
The lower finger crack on second pitch of Reggae before moving right to natural bridge on Boulder Direct
The lower finger crack on second pitch of Reggae b...
One of LaMacchio's first leads. Man were his eye's wide on this pitch; until he found the roof had a slot through it.  <br /> <br />(Tim, did I forget to tell you, you don't actually have to climb over the roof? oops, my bad.)
One of LaMacchio's first leads. Man were his eye's...
Matt chillin under the natural arch at the top of Boulder Direct
Matt chillin under the natural arch at the top of ...
The boulder on Boulder Direct
The boulder on Boulder Direct
Erin Koenig all smiles as she approaches the top of pitch 1 on Boulder Direct.
Erin Koenig all smiles as she approaches the top o...
The bridge on Boulder Direct
The bridge on Boulder Direct
Brandon squirming up the 4th class gully.
Brandon squirming up the 4th class gully.
Comments on Boulder Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By David Neckels
May 1, 2002

Try to avoid getting lost in the grass and bushes on this one. Do not step on the bird nests, if possible.

By Bill Wright
May 1, 2002

I've combined this route with Reggae my last two times in the Canyon. You can do this as one pitch with a 60-meter rope. Since the bottom is pretty easy, you can also just run the rope behind the flake at the top of Reggae and downclimb to the rappel anchor while your partner climbs the lower part of the route. You are both on a toprope here, so this is pretty safe. It makes doing this very fast and efficient and lots of fun.

This also avoids the traffic jams that are ever present on Calypso.

By Matthew Brejcha
Mar 26, 2004
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

Awesome way to pass slow parties on Calypso.

By Anonymous Coward
May 26, 2005

If you're trying to squeeze one more easy pitch in before dark, climb the boulder to the crack and go partway up, but move left onto the well featured face before you get to the ledge. follow the right edge of a big flake to a point on the ledge six feet right of the rap bolts on calypso. rap right back down to the uphill side of the boulder with a 60m rope. just make sure no one is headed to or already on the rap anchor before you start and tie knots in the ends of your rap rope.-s

By Buff Johnson
Jan 23, 2006
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

I combine the 2nd pitch of this climb with a 5.5 route to the right of the big boulder (when I am not going to be in the way). Makes for a better 2 pitch outing for 5.5 climbing. The 2nd pitch is pretty fun, and does get overlooked as compared to Calypso & Reggae.

By Jo Holloway
Jun 26, 2006

The second pitch is great for a beginning leader. When you are at the top of this route, keep an eye out for a couple of small patches of poison ivy just below the arch.

By Ryan Tuleja
May 21, 2008

I climbed this route yesterday, and had a couple of hornets watching me on the second pitch. I didn't see a nest, and my follower didn't see them at all, but figured I'd put the word out.

By Bob Brockwehl
From: Golden, CO
Jul 26, 2009

The standard start up the face of the boulder does not seem safe to me. The flakes are hollow-sounding and according to my belayer, did not seem to be attached at the bottom. I like the alternative suggested by Buff Johnson (that sounds like the first pitch of West Overhang). I also agree with Bill Wright: the first pitch is the best approach to Reggae, and if better known, would take a lot of the pressure off P1 of Calypso.